Slice: New York »

Pizza reviews in NYC.

Daily Slice: Adriatic, NYC

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photograph: Ben Fishner]

If the Pizza Cognition Theory really holds true, maybe I shouldn't have been the correspondent to write this installment of Daily Slice. I grew up in Stuyvesant Town, across the street from Adriatic, and it's one of the first slices I can remember eating. Still, I think I can objectively say that Adriatic makes a damn fine slice of New York pizza. There's an old school, sit-down Italian-American restaurant in the back of Adriatic, but up front is, for my money, the most reliable pizza place in the neighborhood.

The crust on a plain slice ($2.50) at Adriatic is thin, but not overly so. It maintains a wonderful crispiness, folding with no sagging tip for eating on the go. There's not a ton of sauce, but there's not too much cheese, either, and neither component overwhelms the other. The cheese especially seems better than average quality, lacking the overpowering saltiness that so many slices in the city succumb to. And since the cheese and sauce are applied with such moderation, you don't end up with a melt-y, greasy mess sliding off of your slice. The end-crust is narrow, but no less crispy for it. Whether or not you were raised on this slice, it won't disappoint.

Adriatic Italian Restaurant and Brick Oven Pizza

321 1st Avenue, New York NY (map)
212-260-2797

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