The Kitchen Door, in Napa's Oxbow Market, classifies one group of dishes as "flatbreads," but they certainly qualify as pizza, too. They're all cooked in a 700°F oven burning almond wood, and pick up a real smoky char from it.
The Huevos Rancheros ($12) "fold and eat" flatbread is topped with scrambled eggs, just-cooked-enough refried beans, predictably perfect California avocado, and cooling sour cream, with a chipotle-laced chili sauce that manages to perk up the pizza but not overwhelm anything else. While the crust is a little dense, it's got that great chewy-crisp texture, the outside crust cracking audibly when you bite into it, with an appealing smoky flavor. And despite its towering mound of toppings, it's easy to eat once you spread them out and, as the name suggests, fold and eat; cut into quarters and those slices folded down the middle, each one is sturdy enough to bear the brunch load.