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Daily Slice: Is It Just Me or Does Rubirosa Keep Getting Better?

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

As impressed as we were by Rubirosa—the Nolita red-sauce joint/Staten Island-style Pizzeria—when it first opened (see our reviews here and here), now that our office is just a few blocks away, I make it out there for a slice or two pretty regularly during the week. And I've gotta say, it just keeps getting better and better.

From the beginning, it was their sauce that had impressed me most. Bright, fresh, and chunky, well-balanced between sweetness, saltiness, and acidity, it's the kind of sauce you wish every restaurant in Little Italy's around the world could have (but they don't). Their crust, done in a cracker-thin, Staten Island bar-pie style (read: crunchy with no rim) has always been pretty good, but recently, it's just been stellar. Perfectly charred, flavorful, pliant, and slightly chewy, it's about as good as you can hope for.

It's as if the pieman and the oven have finally gotten past the awkward getting-to-know-you phase and are now comfortable enough with their relationship that they can focus on the truly important things (that would be awesome pizza).

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They say there are only two slices available during the day—the plain, with that great sauce and a few spots of melted fresh mozzarella, along with their vodka slice (made with an equally addictive cream-spiked sauce)—but that's a bit misleading. You can add any topping you'd like for 50¢ apiece. I strongly suggest the bitter braised broccoli rabe and sausage. Yeah, the sausage is cooked and sliced instead of applied in rough chunks the way "true" pizzafficionados like it, but it's still crazy flavorful and plenty juicy.

Dear Rubirosa: Please keep doing what you are doing.

Rubirosa Pizza & Bar

235 Mulberry Street, New York NY 10012 (Prince/Spring; map)
212-965-0500; Rubirosa on Facebook

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