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Pizza reviews in the Portland area.

Daily Slice: Pizza A Go-Go, Portland, Oregon

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: Jim Bonomo]

Pizza A Go-Go is a no-frills pizza shop in the north end, striving, per their website, to "Keep Portland Tasty". In this endeavor they appear successful, serving up some satisfying slices to the Williams Avenue set. At first glance, the slices appear quite similar to many other slices you've seen around town. It's what's inside that really brings that promised tastiness to the table. They also claim that their pizzas have the "most happenin' combos around!", making it imperative to sample something with an array of unusually paired ingredients.

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The featured meat slice was Jalapeno, Pineapple, and Pepperoni ($3.75) on your standard cheese-and-sauce base. The first (and most intense) sensation to hit the palate was the fiery interplay between the hot peppers and the spicy meat. The way that the pepperoni grease absorbed the chili oils, oozing into the cheese and glazing the crust, was a thing of beauty for a devout pizza-and-chilehead like myself. The pineapple added sweetness to this cousin to the Hawaiian, achieving a hint of balance amongst the toppings. The cheese was applied with a heavy hand, which added a pleasant texture and chew due to the low-moisture content.

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The crust was adequate, boasting an attractively-blistered undercarriage and pleasant crispness. The outer edge of the slice was brittle and light, with an airy puff inside; it provided a perfect sauce mop for the chili-infused oil that had settled on the plate. The flavor of the oil-soaked cornicone brought back memories of country fair-style fried dough.

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The real highlight of the Pizza A Go-Go slice was their sauce. There was integrity in its simplicity. The sauce was composed of sizable chunks of robust tomatoes in their own well-seasoned juice and a hint of herbs. The tomato element added a natural sweetness to the overall canvas, supporting the more amplified flavors like a true pizza workhorse. For an honest slice with killer sauce (best enjoyed in the summertime on their outdoor patio), Pizza A Go-Go is a damn fine choice.

Pizza A Go-Go
3240 N Williams Ave, Portland, Oregon 97227 (map)
503-335-0300; pizza-agogo.com

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