Daily Slice: Urbano Pizza Bar, Los Angeles
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
While Mozza and Antica Pizzeria have set the benchmark for Los Angeles pizza, Urbano Pizza Bar just maybe the perfect hybrid of the two. Hailing from Nancy Sliverton's La Brea Bakery, Master Baker Brad Winnaman cultivates a light Neapolitan-style crust, with a mottled brown edge—much like the currently shuttered Antica Pizzeria.
The subtly smoked mozzarella permeates the Carciofi pizza ($14). Strewn with marinated artichokes on a bed of crushed tomatoes, it could use some salt, but don't expect it to be readily availble. The wet center requires a knife and fork but the outer crust holds up well to the juicy chunks of artichoke.
In LA, burrata is the king of cheese. But its prevalence has lead to a lackluster explosion of overpriced soggy pies. Thankfully this is not the case with Urbano's Selvatica pizza ($14).The pie leads with a mellow nuttiness and the sweetly developed flavors of pine nuts and roasted cherry tomatoes, but then it follows up with a the powerful oomph of rich pesto. Burrata rounds it all, ensuring that not a crumb will be left behind.
PS: If this column was called "Daily Appetizer," you'd be reading a gushing review of a roasted artichoke...
Urbano Pizza Bar630 W 6th St. Los Angeles, CA 90017 (map)