[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

Another friday night, another gaggle of drunk hipsters returning from the city looking for a booze sponge in Williamsburg before the next party.

Of course, we already know that the absolute best pizza in the area is Best Pizza, but that's sober pizza. Drunk pizza is an entirely different beast. With drunk pizza, big, cheesy, and greasy us what you're after, and Williamsburg has more than its share of those.

Anna Maria, on N 7th and Bedford is the classic, but a few blocks down, La Nonna Pizzeria Trattoria is a worthy competitor.

The regular slice ($2.50) is uninspired though tasty. Barely any spring to the dough, it tastes to me more like a grandma slice in triangle shape with less flavorful sauce. If you're after a good fat and greasy triangle slice, hit up Anna Maria instead.

The Grandma Slice ($2.75) is a much better option, and a good value for the buck. Plenty of garlic, a rich tomato sauce, lots of cheese, good chewy-crisp crust, my only complaint would be the overuse of dried herbs

But if booze-sponge is what you're after, it's their thick, pan-cooked specialty slices. The same grandma dough rises in a deep pie pan, rises thick, gets loaded with extra cheese, and is baked longer than the regular pie, giving you some nice char on the edges of the toppings and the bones of the pie.

I'd guess this slice has about 50% more heft to it than their standard slice, for the same price (toppings are $1 extra apiece)

You don't often see this kind of nice blackened cheese-char in a by-the-slice joint in New York. Booze-fueled greasy pizza lovers rejoice!

La Nonna Pizzeria

237 Bedford Avenue, New York, NY 11211 (between N 3rd and N 4th; map)
718-302-5353 ‎

About the author: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt is the Managing Editor of Serious Eats where he likes to explore the science of home cooking in his weekly column The Food Lab. You can follow him at @thefoodlab on Twitter, or at The Food Lab on Facebook.