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Pizza reviews in the San Francisco area.

Daily Slice: Pesto and Pork Conserva Pizza at Goody Goodie in San Francisco

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: David Kover]

I didn't wind up eating pizza at Goody Goodie for the crust. The extra-thin round of dough that they roll out with a pin leaps skyward around the edges when they slide it onto the deck of their gas oven, creating massive air pockets. The crisp crust didn't carry much flavor, except where it had charred—though, frankly, the underside of my pie had moved more towards fully burnt in spots.

Rather, I found myself drawn into the little pastry shop-cum-cafe by the creative toppings on their menu. The daily special had been slathered with a deep green, grassy-flavored pesto and then dotted with pork conserva. On top of this came a pile of arugula and a scattering of plum slices. Though the salad mixture fell off the pie almost as soon as I picked up my first slice, it proved my favorite part of the meal. The spicy greens had been liberally oiled and salted, complementing the sweet-tart flavor of the plums. I'd have eagerly eaten a bowl of this on its own.

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On the whole, a quirky little pizza experience. But I'd be curious to see what other creations find their way onto the specials board. And since I've only just discovered that they turn out a stellar chocolate chip cookie, it seems likely that I at least need to return for dessert.

Goody Goodie Cream & Sugar

1830 Harrison Street, San Francisco, CA 94103 (map)
808-554-6464; goodygoodie.com
Note: Look up Goody Goodie on Yelp, and you will also find it listed as Starstream.

About the author: David Kover is a San Francisco-based freelance writer and food enthusiast. He's willing to try any pizza topping combo at least once, even if it doesn't always leave him with a happy stomach. Follow him on Twitter (@pizzakover).

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