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Daily Slice: Joe's Pizza, Los Angeles
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
It's been a few years since we've visited Santa Monica's "authentic" New York Pizzeria. In that time, quality may have waned while lawsuits have risen, but still, Joe's Pizza retains its foothold in the Los Angeles pizza scene.
The average-sized slice commands an average price of $2.75. Specks of char spot the wafer crisp undercrust, while a chewy layer lays just below the sauce. Neither sweet or rich, too herby or too bland, the sauce is just right. It is present enough to be savory without distracting from the crust or cheese. A thin, salty blanket of aged mozzarella spreads across the top, glistening under a thin sheet of oil and marked by intermittent browning. There is no tip sag, per se—but when lifted, the understructure begins to collapse in on itself like an automatic garage door.
Of course this isn't a perfect New York-style slice. If we examine anything too closely, the imperfections and disappointments become apparent. But if you take a step back, squint your eyes a bit, a Slice from Joe's Pizza looks and tastes a lot like like a New York slice. So when your tummy rumbles for a quick bite, Joe's Pizza is always a fine choice. Though it may have given way to Vito's Pizza in LA's pizza wars, it's still the best New-York-style-pizza-by-the-slice on the Westside.
Joe's Pizza111 Broadway Santa Monica, CA 90407