Daily Slice: The Atomica Pizza at Gialina, San Francisco
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
San Francisco pizzaiola Sharon Ardiana makes her money turning out pies with unorthodox toppings, yet the ingredient list on her pie that most lingers in my memory would almost be at home in your corner slice shop. The Atomica pizza that Ardiana serves at Gialina arrives covered in tomato sauce, mozzarella, strips of mushroom, and some red onion. She also adds some chili—not enough to go thermonuclear, just a gentle heat that ties together the sweetness of the sauce, the bite of the onion, and the earthy mushroom flavors. I've called her a topping wizard in the past, and that certainly holds true on this pie.
The crust at Gialina has been the topic of a bit more debate among local pizzaphiles. It arrives blond and crisp, and it tastes a bit like the pizza has been encircled with home-made French bread. Ding her for this if you want to, but it tastes good enough that it allows the toppings to convince you.
About the author: David Kover is a San Francisco–based freelance writer and food enthusiast. He occasionally gets his tweet on at @pizzakover.