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Pizza reviews in the Boston area.

Daily Slice: Crazy Dough's Pizza, Boston

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: Ed Kearns]

I prefer my pizza with a healthy serving of transparency. I like to know what I'm in for at first glance. There are those pizza joints that disguise themselves as restaurants, and then there are those for whom the slice is the lifeblood of the operation. Crazy Dough's Pizza is firmly entrenched in the latter camp.

During my midday visit, there were no fewer than seven different slice options available, and that was only among the Sicilian-style pies. The sizeable display at the counter gave clear view to creations such as potato bacon cheddar, balsamic glaze and ricotta, buffalo chicken and bacon, and reuben. Yes, there were Margarita and pepperoni options, but choosing that route would seem to go against the spirit after which the establishment was named. It seemed only right to indulge in the "#1 Customer Favorite": potato bacon cheddar.

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Despite the success the triumvirate of potato, bacon, and cheddar cheese has enjoyed in other venues, it's rarely seen atop a pizza. I'm not sure I've ever had potato on a pizza before, and this slice did nothing to prevent it from happening again. Some of the slices of red bliss, particularly those more vertically inclined, took on a potato chip quality that bookended the crunch of the nicely browned crust. However, the slice was a bit overcooked, which detracted from what had the potential to be a light and airy platform. That potential went unrealized, instead coming off dry and cracked. The center lacked the moisture needed for that slightly spongy resistance that is the hallmark of a satisfying Sicilian slice. That said, the toppings all played together well. The plentiful bacon's saltiness was nicely offset by a subtle sweetness in the white sauce, and the well-portioned cheddar offered a solid compliment without overwhelming the production.

While the potato bacon cheddar slice was not as crave-inducing as I had imagined it to be, it's not far off. I am definitely willing to give it another shot, and I'm pretty sure that balsamic glaze and ricotta slice was making eyes at me through the glass.

Crazy Dough's Pizza

1124 Boylston Street, Boston MA 02215 (map)
617-266-5656; crazydoughs.com
Multiple locations

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