A Hamburger Today
Percy's Pizza: A Dollar Slice That Doesn't Suck
The problem with dollar slices is that you almost always get what you pay for. Sometimes not even that. Of those I've eaten around the city, the most complimentary thing I could say about the best of them was that they were cheap—and probably good for after-bar scarfing.
But Percy's Pizza, a newish dollar slice joint on Bleecker amid all the bars and jazz clubs, might be the best dollar slice I've had—even good as judged by the standards of a regular New York slice.
Percy's is especially great when it's hot out of the oven, with creamy, stringy mozzarella; a fresh-tasting sauce that seems to be little more than crushed tomatoes with some salt added—maybe a little sugar in there, as it's a touch sweeter than most lightly cooked sauces.
The crust is crisp and chewy, with none of the excessive softness or doughiness of the Hot Fresh 99¢ Bros. It's flexible and foldable. At least that's how it's been two of three times I've tried it. The shot above, well, it was a little overcooked when I visited earlier this week.
But I show that shot to you to illustrate the fact that this is not an ordinary dollar slice.
See, in a recent Slice post, Kenji attempted to define the "dollar slice" as a unique style of pizza. One of the major hallmarks of which being that the dough is stretched on an oiled surface, transferred to a screen and then cooked.
But Percy's flies in the face of that MO, as it's stretched on a floured surface and cooked directly on the deck of a gas-fired oven (a beautiful, old, stocky, four-deck Blodgett oven that looks like it's made a lot of NYC pizza in its time).
That might be because it's owned by the South Brooklyn Pizza folks. Those familiar with the spot know that Percy's replaces the short-lived Greenwich Village location of South Brooklyn, of which Slice is a fan. As the manager on duty there when I visited recently told me, "Same guys. They just wanted to try a new venture here."
It's not quite the same rich, flavorful slice as at the actual South Brooklyn Pizza, but it's a dollar slice that's playing in the two-dollar leagues and not doing too bad at it. Especially at 1am.
Plain slices, $1; most topped slices are $1.50; 2 slices and a drink go for $2.75.
190 Bleecker Street, New York NY 10012 (near MacDougal; map)