Daily Slice: Casa Razdora, Boston
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
The Diavola slice ($4.25) at Casa Razdora dwarfs a standard dinner plate. Each slice makes up a quarter of a 16-inch pie. And for the mouths in Boston's financial district long deprived of quality pizza, their mondo slices more than make up for the deficiency.
Silver dollar rounds of hot sopressata are thinly sliced so that they achieve a crackling crisp lip in the oven's heat. They give the slice a little kick and lot of porky, meaty flavor. Browned Parmesan cheese works its way into almost each bite and bright, fruity tomato sauce, applied with a light hand, offers just the right contrast to the flavorful dough.
The structure of the crust is thicker than a Neapolitan or New York slice, but is neither too dense or heavy. Despite being one-quarter of a whole pie, when lifted, the slice holds as if standing at attention without a hint of sag. And this blistered crust is not merely a vehicle for flavor; it has a character all its own. Wheaty, with a somewhat malt-y flavor, the bread is a tad on the salty side, but that's a minor grievance about an otherwise extremely satisfying slice.