Daily Slice

A different slice profiled each day.

Daily Slice: Signal Station Pizza, Portland, Oregon

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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'Cathedral' slice at Signal Station Pizza. [Photographs: Jim Bonomo]

As most Portlanders will tell you, the St. John's neighborhood is not the most convenient place for anything, nevermind a slice of pizza. A clear schedule, an empty belly, and a cloudy afternoon created the perfect storm of St. John's-friendly travel circumstances. There I found the 'Cathedral' ($3.95/slice), a vegetarian melange of salty, savory garden fare.

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Capers, tomatoes, Kalamata olives, and basil leaves provided the salad element. Mozzarella, provolone, and feta topped the olive oil and garlic brushed crust. The oil-soaked basil leaves crisped up beautifully under the heat of the conveyor-belt oven, and the capers, olives, and feta offered a satisfyingly briny contrast to the other cheeses on the slice. The pungency of garlic and provolone lingered. This was not a boring slice.

Despite the level of culinary daring showcased here, the pie's essential foundation fell flat. The undercarriage bore that all-to-familiar crosshair grid pattern indicative of the aforementioned belt oven. The crust was flavorless and limp.

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The remote location, an old gas station in a Bizarro arm of Portland, needs more than a slice with a slender spark of potential to make it a destination-worthy spot.

Signal Station Pizza
8302 North Lombard Street, Portland, Oregon 97203 (map)

503-286-2257; www.signalstationpizza.com

 About the author:Jim Bonomo was born and raised in Milford, Connecticut. He is currently eating and drinking his way through Portland, Oregon. Once all the pizza and beer is gone, he promises to go back home. You can follow him on Twitter at @goodbyeohio.

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