Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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The Sicilian Slice at O'Malley's. Photographs: Jim Bonomo]

Since Apizza Scholls ceased its Sicilian pie service, the thick, square slices have been the missing link of the Portland pizza scene. After recently discovering that a hole-in-the-wall Southeast Portland pub was serving up the square style, I knew where the Slice business would be leading me this week. O'Malley's Saloon and Grill is the last place you'd imagine would be rocking a gas-fired stone hearth oven, and when the bartender was unsure what "a slice of Sicilian" meant, my spirits fell.

Fear not, this slice ($4 during happy hour) was the real deal. A sweet, garlicky sauce full of fresh, chunky tomatoes formed a solid base, and the co-mingled perfectly with the Parmesan and mozzarella. A dusting of fresh black pepper added appropriate zest, and the slice itself was expertly seasoned.

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As should be with a Sicilian slice, the crust was the star. The airy, spongy center was supported by an audibly crispy exterior; the boxy edges crackled with brown butter. It may not be the most traditional Sicilian out there, but it pressed all the buttons I hoped it would after a personal five-year hiatus from the oft-ignored style.

O'Malley's Saloon and Grill
6535 Southeast Foster Road, Portland, Oregon (map)

503-777-0495; www.omalleyspdx.com

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