[Photos: Robyn Lee]

Okay, it's only a pizza in the sense of "round bready thing topped by something else," but the Squash Pizzette ($6) at The Smile To Go in New York's Soho is still a tasty lunch. The base is on the soft end, but it's pleasingly chewy and just a little sweet, a good foundation for the squash and creme fraiche that top it. The whole thing is amply salted (some might say a touch oversalted, but we're down with it) in a way that makes it a little more exciting than the sum of its ingredients looks. And it has us wanting to see more squash on pizza...

The Smile To Go

22 Howard Street, New York NY 10013 (map)
646-329-5836; thesmilenyc.com

About the author: Carey Jones is the Senior Managing Editor of Serious Eats. Follow her on Twitter (@careyjones).