Daily Slice: Pizza Bianca with Stracciatella and Fava Beans at Locanda, San Francisco
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
"Oh, it's Spring!"
An odd reaction, given that the seasons changed over a month ago, but it somehow didn't become official for me until I had my first bite of Locanda's pizza bianca with stracciatella and fava beans ($9). The stracciatella has a clean, almost palate-cleansing quality with a slight hint of sour at the end. Besides the fava beans, they have added lemon oil and a scatter of mint leaves, all accentuated with some coarse salt. It's light and refreshing in a way that wakes you up before the rest of the meal.
Locanda leaves a plate of plain pizza bianca at every table when diners are seated. In its basic form, the stuff is olive oil-y, salty, and chewy, with some crunch around the edges. For the topped version, they split the bread open and reheat it so that it becomes crunchy through and through. It makes a little noise as you chew through it, but it doesn't get loud enough to obscure the sounds of the chirping birds evoked by the toppings.