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Pizza reviews in the Los Angeles area.

Daily Slice: Moishe's Village, Los Angeles

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: Kelly Bone]

The Original Farmer's Market may serve a truly winning burger, but the pizza offerings are deplorable. Or so I thought. At the nudging of a friend, I approached the perpetually quiet Moishe's Village. Situated next to the lively Moishe's Restaurant, this unassuming little sister is serving one of the best meals in the Farmer's Market.

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Behind a glass case is an array of oblong flatbreads topped with vegetables, meats, and cheese. The menu calls the made to order breads borekas—though they bear a strong resemblance to stuffed breads of the same Turkish origin called pidesThe gas-powered Earthstone oven sits dormant until an order is placed... yes, that's how quiet this stall is. But once the boreka is prepared, the oven blazes up to 680 degrees and it is baked to pillowy perfection.

I've made a weekly ritual of the Cheese and Spinach Boreka with a side of couscous and fatoush ($10.50). There's an abundance of wilted spinach under the stringy mozzarella. Slightly salty, these toppings complement the mild dough perfectly. The crust is pliable with almost zero crisp and folds over the toppings neatly as each cheesy slice is lifted from the plate. Though the dough is left with a noticeable dusting of bench flour, its flavor is barely detectable on the lightly browned edge.

Moishe's Village

6333 W 3rd St, Stall # 334, Los Angeles, CA 90036 (map)
323-936-9340; farmersmarketla.com

About the author: After nearly a decade in Brooklyn, Kelly Bone landed back in Los Angeles where she writes The Vegetarian Foodie. She spends the rest of her time designing office cubicles... you might be sitting in one right now! Follow her on Twitter at @TheVegFoodie

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