Slideshow: 16 Great Square Slices in NYC

Adrienne's Pizzabar
Adrienne's Pizzabar
The "Old Fashioned" pizza at Adrienne's Pizzabar. It's got elements of the grandma pie, of New York–Neapolitan, of pan pizza, even a little Detroit style—but whatever you call it, it's awesome. There's a sweet, uncooked sauce of high-quality Italian canned tomatoes; a little whole-milk mozzarella, plus Parmesan and pecorino. But what really makes it excellent is the airy, puffy dough with crisp, oily edges.

Adrienne's Pizzabar: 54 Stone Street, New York NY 10005 (map); 212-248-3838; adriennespizzabar.com

Nonna's Lower East Side Pizzeria
Nonna's Lower East Side Pizzeria
The grandma slice is the one to order here: with an ultra-crisp, almost fried-tasting oily bottom and richly flavored tomato sauce.

Nonna's Lower East Side Pizzeria: 105 Clinton Street, New York NY 10002 (map); 212-477-2708

L & B Spumoni Gardens
L & B Spumoni Gardens
With a 72 year history, many stories have been made and told under the neon glow of the signs at Brooklyn's L&B Spumoni Gardens. Made with a crisp, thick crust that has no ambitions of airiness, the bottom and edges are deeply burnished. They reverse the standard tomato-cheese order, placing the mozzarella directly on the dough and the sweet/tart sauce on top, along with a handful of grated Pecorino and generous drizzles of good olive oil.

L & B Spumoni Gardens: 2725 86th Street Brooklyn, NY 11223 (map); 718-449-1230; spumonigardens.com

Pizza Cotta Bene
Pizza Cotta Bene
The grandma slice has a significant chew and a shatteringly crunchy bottom; the sfincione (pictured here), an oily, crisp base topped with plenty of onions and breadcrumbs flavored with olive oil and grated cheese. The mozzarella added here isn't really traditional, but it's so tasty that we don't care a bit.

Pizza Cotta Bene: 291 3rd Avenue, Brooklyn, NY (map); 718-722-7200

Artichoke Basille's Grandma Slice, On A Good Day
Artichoke Basille's Grandma Slice, On A Good Day
Forget the sloppy, gloppy, artichoke-dip-on-a-crust signature slice from Artichoke Basille's—it's the square pie that has us going back for more. Oily, crisp, and nearly deep-fried on the bottom with a triple play of cheese—a layer of Polly-O aged mozz on the bottom, dots of fresh mozzarella on top, and a dusting of Pecorino Romano after they leave the oven—they're cooked to a deep char with fresh tomato sauce and plenty of basil, garlic, and olive oil.

On a good day, they're sublime. On a bad day, they can border on too greasy and crisp without enough chew, but are still worth a bite. Ask for a corner slice to get an extra helping of the crisp, nearly blackened shreds of cheese that come in contact with the edges of the pan.

Artichoke: 328 East 14th Street, New York NY 10003 (b/n First and Second avenues; map); 212-228-2004; artichokepizza.com

[Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

NY Pizza Suprema
NY Pizza Suprema
A longtime favorite at Serious Eats. Suprema calls this an "upside down pizza," but it's essentially a Sicilian slice that goes crust, cheese, sauce instead of crust, sauce, cheese. If you're down with sweetish sauce—or you want a great slice near the culinary wasteland of Penn Station—this is your pizza.

NY Pizza Suprema: 413 Eighth Avenue, New York NY 10001 (at 31st Street; map); 212-594-8939

Best Pizza's Pickled Vegetable Pie
Best Pizza's Pickled Vegetable Pie
When you're ballsy enough to call your pizzeria Best Pizza, you've really gotta walk the walk. Best Pizza does.

It might be one of the best regular slices in the city, but it's the pickled vegetable slice that haunts our dreams. Onions, fennel, broccoli, sprouts, cauliflower—they all get the brine treatment before being generously deposited on top of the excellent pies. It's unusual, and unusually good.

Best Pizza: 33 Havemeyer Street, Brooklyn NY 11211 (North 7th/North 8th streets; map); 718-599-2210; best.piz.za.com

Di Fara Pizza
Di Fara Pizza
The lines are long, the slices are $5, and you risk getting a pie that's overly, well, "artfully charred" let's just say. But it's worth it. Between the regular slice and the Sicilian, we're hard pressed to decide which is better, but if forced, we'd go with the square pie. With plenty of heft, a crisp, fried bottom, fresh tomato sauce oozing over the edges and wonderfully crisp bits of cheese around the sides, this is the square pie that so many others aspire to.

Here is everything you need to know about Di Fara

Di Fara Pizza: 1424 Avenue J, Brooklyn NY 11230 (map); 718-258-1367; difara.com

Prince Street Pizza
Prince Street Pizza
Billing itself as the "Home of the Soho Square," with three Sicilians and a grandma, Prince Street does both styles well. Like at L&B Spumoni Gardens, the cheese at Prince Street—fresh mozzarella—is layered directly on the dough and under the sauce. This makes for a unique overall texture, with a crisp bottom and a soft, squishy middle, all beneath a thick, chunky flavorful tomato sauce. We liked the classic and the spicy pepperoni with a fra diavolo sauce.

Prince Street Pizza: 27 Prince Street, New York NY 10003 (map); 212-966-4100; princestpizza.com

Antika Pizzeria
Antika Pizzeria
This Brooklyn pizzeria serves decidedly New York–style pizzas — a "Classic New York Round" pie (that in truth nods more toward the New York–Neapolitan style of pizza) and an "Old Fashioned Grandma Style Square" pizza. The latter is the pie to get. The crust is light, airy enough, and takes a nice burnishing from the oiled pan, becoming crisp-fried-chewy in spots while remaining soft and moist (but not underdone) in others.

Antika Pizzeria: 3924 Broadway, New York NY 10032 (map); 212-781-9100; antikapizzeria.com

Valentino's Pizza
Valentino's Pizza
Out in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, Valentino's just looks like it'd make a good slice, and this grandma didn't disappoint. The crust has an impossibly crisp, cracker-like bottom and a thin layer of wonderful softness where the dough met the sauce; the sauce is fresh and tangy, the cheese mild and sparingly applied.

Valentino's Pizza: 1702 86th St., Brooklyn, NY 11214 (map); 718-837-3800

Tony's Pizza
Tony's Pizza
While the round New York–style pizza is very good, the Sicilian is even better—a thin plank of pie brimming with molten cheese that spilled over the edges of the slice. As the cheese elongated, little holes appeared on the surface and geysers of the sweet, tangy sauce squirted through them. The dough was light and impossibly airy, spongy and soft, yet with a good crunch on the bottom.

Tony's Pizza: 355 Graham Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11211 (map); 718-384-8669; http://tonyspizzaonline.rapidorders.com/