Slideshow: Nicoletta: What Michael White is Really After

Calabrese ($21)
Calabrese ($21)
Our favorite pie of the bunch with thick cups of pepperoni, great fennel-riddled housemade sausage, and red onions on a cheese and tomato base. It'll fill you up, and how. One pie is easily enough for two to share.
Assaggini e Sfizi (Small Bites)
Assaggini e Sfizi (Small Bites)
Meals start with little cups of intensely flavored bites all in the $4 to $5 range. Our favorites were the Peperoni Friti ($4)—fried shishito peppers with bread crumbs and lemon juice—and the Cetriolo ($4)—bright pickled cucumbers.
Suppli ($5)
Suppli ($5)
Arancini stuffed with mozzarella and pork ragu were deliciously hot and crisp.
Calamari ($12)
Calamari ($12)
The only dish that we'd actively steer you away from, the braised calamari was rubbery and extremely fishy smelling—enough that three members of the party came to the independent decision that it had gone off.
Pollo All'Aceto ($10)
Pollo All'Aceto ($10)
White's ode to the buffalo wing is a whole breaded and fried chicken thigh served with a vinegary chili sauce made with Calabrian chilis. Unfortunately, if you're going to riff on something, it has to be better than the original. We found ourselves wishing we could just have some real buffalo wings instead of the over-breaded, under-vinegared chicken thigh.
Mare Salad ($12)
Mare Salad ($12)
A bright and lemony seafood salad with celery and wild arugula. Some folks have complained of its texture. We found it to be quite lovely with tender squid, octopus, clams, and mussels.
Pepperoni curls
Pepperoni curls
Check out those crisp-edged little cups. Delicious!
Patatona ($19)
Patatona ($19)
Starch-on-starch is not my bag, but if you're a potato lover, this will do fine. It's overtly garlicky and very heavy with plenty of caramelized onions and bacon that early on was limp, but not comes crisped perfectly.
The Crust
The Crust
Dense, thick, and crunchy is the way they do it here.
The Rim Shot
The Rim Shot
"We brush our crust with olive oil right when it comes out of the oven so you get that aroma up front in your face when it gets to the table," says Chef White.
Parmigiana ($18)
Parmigiana ($18)
Mozzarella, tomatoes, ricotta, and fried eggplant.
Soft Serve
Soft Serve
The best thing on the menu is the spectacular vanilla soft serve with an insanely lengthy and delicious toppings bar. Pistachio cumble or rosemary kettle corn is the way to go.