A Hamburger Today
Daily Slice: Apollonia's Pizzeria, Los Angeles
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
I approached Apollonia's Pizzeria with extreme skepticism. Their absurdly enthusiastic press release—with statements such as "[Justin De Leon] devoutly believes that while enjoying an artisan slice of pizza is an act primarily meant to indulge the taste buds, it is also an immensely visual and graphic encounter that transcends the gustatory sense."—activated my bs detector. Instead, I've enjoyed every slice of pizza I've had here.
The pizza ($12.95 for the 14"/$15.95 for the 20") resembles a New York Style pie, but embodies more artisan qualities. Huge bubbles rise from the crust, with the inner dough stretched thin like frosted windows. Mild in flavor, it plays up the bold topping options such as a sausage roster that includes: alligator, rattlesnake, and sundried tomatoes and basil soy. Also, this is not a crisp crust. The limp body hangs at a 90 degree angle when attempting to eat barehanded, so break out the knife and fork.
The thick sauce, applied in stiff swirling peaks, bakes down into a softly sweet base of tomato flesh and flecks of dried herbs. You can also select a base of fruity pesto, though it makes the already heavy pizza extra oily. Fistfuls of aged mozzarella cover the entire surface, and toppings are judiciously applied.
Apollonia's Pizzeria hasn't created a new kind of pie, but it is distinct from other pizzas. It is a conglomeration of the best qualities from various Los Angeles predecessors that are well executed and a welcome addition.
About the author: After nearly a decade in Brooklyn, Kelly Bone landed back in Los Angeles where she writes The Vegetarian Foodie. She spends the rest of her time designing office cubicles... you might be sitting in one right now! Follow her on Twitter at @TheVegFoodie