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Daily Slice: The Rivington at Delancey, Los Angeles
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
When looking for NYC style pizza in LA, Delancey rarely comes up. Perhaps because Delaney is not a direct interpretation of a particular style. They capture the classic New York/Jersey pizzeria feel in the worn brick, burgundy leather, pressed tin ceiling and its parlor pies, but remain aware of their Hollywood address. The menu reads like a map of New York City, and while you may be tempted to order your favorite neighborhood, I'd like to direct you straight to Rivington ($13). Topped with fresh leaves of spinach, sweet dollops of ricotta, whole cloves of roasted garlic, and black pepper, the pie is a subtle play of fresh flavors.
The crust encompasses what owner George Abou-Daoud remembers as great New York pizza. Built on his memory, the crust is crisp from end to tip. The outer lip bulges with of soft white dough with both large and small holes. The crust isn't complex—there are no hints of fermentation or mixed flours— its straightforward tender crumb is delicious all on its own. Paired with the spinach and garlic toppings, the Rivington is the place to be... I mean the pie to eat.
About the author: After nearly a decade in Brooklyn, Kelly Bone landed back in Los Angeles where she writes The Vegetarian Foodie. She spends the rest of her time designing office cubicles... you might be sitting in one right now! Follow her on Twitter at @TheVegFoodie