'Brooklyn' on Serious Eats
One of the most recent additions to the Ditmas Park food scene is Wheated, the new pizzeria from husband and wife team David Sheridan and Kim McAdam. First time restaurateur David is probably familiar to some of you—Adam interviewed him back in 2010 about the WFO he built in his backyard, and he's worked at Paulie Gee's.
When Rosco's opened up on Franklin Avenue last summer, there was murmured skepticism among my friends—our neighborhood was already loaded with a wide range of great pizza options (Barboncino, Pete Zaaz, Amorina, and Franny's, to name a few), so what did we need with a fairly basic slice joint? One visit answered the question: what we needed was a fairly basic slice joint. Rosco's hits the nail on the head, turning out consistently good, moderately priced, straightforward New York-style pies.
Last week, we ran Part 1 of our in-depth interview with Paul Giannone, pizzaiolo extraordinaire and owner of the acclaimed Brooklyn pizzeria Paulie Gee's. As he readies himself to open a new branch in Baltimore, Paulie agreed to sit down with us and talk about his whirlwind journey from IT desk jockey to pizza legend. Today, we pick up with Part 2!
Mathieu Palombino is poised to open Motorino Williamsburg in the next week, marking a return to the borough after the building housing his original location was condemned. He's happy to be back, and his menu features a few surprises, both old and new. Check out the slideshow to take a look.
A Brooklynite myself, I'll admit to a tinge of favoritism when I declare that there's no better borough for pizza. Or, to be a little more diplomatic, let's say that it's home to the city's greatest concentration of top notch pies. We've got the classics, like Totonno's, Grimaldi's, and Di Fara, along with a slew of (relative) newcomers—Roberta's, Paulie Gee's, and Best Pizza, to name just a few. And, of course, there's Franny's. We finally made it over to their new-and-improved location to check in on their pies.
Three years ago, Paulie Giannone told then-music supervisor Mike Kurtz he could apprentice at his newly opened pizzeria, Paulie Gee's. Mike told Paulie, "Next week, when I come in, I'm going to bring my condiment." It wasn't long before the two pizzaioli figured out that Mike's chile and vinegar-spiked honey and Paulie's Dellboy pizza (a salty, meaty, piquant pizza made with spicy sopressata, fresh mozz, and parmigiano reggiano) were a match made in pizza heaven. And that's how the aptly named Hellboy, a must-order pie on the Paulie Gee's menu, was born.
We set out for Coney Island last weekend for a long overdue taste of Totonno's. The pizzeria has only been open for a matter of weeks, since completing post-Sandy repairs, but they haven't skipped a beat. The pies? Better than ever.
Contrary to recent news coverage, Totonno's did not have to replace their oven following last fall's hurricane damages. Read what co-owner Antoinette Balazano has to say on the matter.
Yesterday, Di Fara, a.k.a (one of) the best pizza joint(s) on planet Earth, announced that they'll be opening a take-out spot later this month.
Yesterday, Totonno's opened its doors once again. It's not every restaurant—or family—that would display the kind of resilience that we've seen from this iconic Coney Island pizzeria. And we cannot wait to get our fix.
We've been writing about Franny's since 2004, when the Park Slope pizzeria first opened its doors. In the years since, the pie shop has grown into a Brooklyn institution. Now, owners Francine Stephens and Andrew Feinberg are simultaneously relocating Franny's and opening a new, non-pizza restaurant in its place.
We fell hard and fast for PizzaMoto's mobile wood-fired pies back in 2009. But mobile ovens can be as tricky to find as they are to operate and maintain, so we were pretty pumped to learn that the PizzaMoto team is getting ready to open their very first stationary pizzeria this fall. And they want your help raising the $50,000 they need to restore the turn of the century oven in their new Red Hook location.
Hype is a devious creature. Great press can work wonders in the restaurant business; it can also build expectations fundamentally disproportionate to reality. Such was the case with our recent excursion to Krescendo. Maybe it was chef Elizabeth Falkner's exceptional reputation, or the excitement generated by Pete Wells's recent two star review in The New York Times. Regardless, we walked in hoping for transcendent pizza. What we found was a good neighborhood Neapolitan joint. No more, no less.
I have been eating Patsy Grimaldi's pizza for a long, long time. How long? Long enough to have thoroughly enjoyed his pizza before the added emotional spice of pizza lawsuits. Long enough to have eaten the pies that he himself made in the original incarnation of Grimaldi's, back in 1990 when it was still called Patsy's. Long enough to have engaged in lengthy conversations with Patsy and his wife Carol at the Corona Heights Pork Store, where they used to buy their mozzarella and sausage from Frankie Capezza in the '90s. Long enough to know that Patsy started to learn his craft in 1941 at his uncle's East Harlem pizzeria, the truly original Patsy's. So you can imagine how excited I was when I heard that Patsy and Carol were coming out of retirement and embarking on yet another comeback, returning to run the show at his original location under yet another name: Juliana's, after his late mother.
Hurricane Sandy delivered a nasty blow to the buildout progress of Ditmas Park's newest pizzeria, Wheated. The restaurant, as Adam mentioned in September, was slated to open their doors at 903 Church Ave in early 2013. And despite the hurricane laying waste to their Moretti Forni electric ovens in the form of total saltwater submersion, that is still the plan.
Brooklyn Central, a new restaurant on Fifth Avenue in Park Slope, isn't your typical Neapolitan Pizzeria. The restaurant, named after the old elevated railway that once ran through the neighborhood, is a collaboration between Hyland and Roberto Patriarca, who met working at Sottocasa. Hyland previously worked at The Spotted Pig and The Breslin, and Patriarca is an i Trulli alum.
Learn how to make Barboncino's artichoke and smoked pancetta pizza. This delicious white artichoke-crowned pie is intensely smoky, salty, cheesy and garlicky, and surprisingly simple to replicate at home!
I have a complicated relationship with Roberta's pizza, which when fresh out of the oven is one of my favorites in the city, but falls off that peak within about ten minutes of cooling. But when I make it out to Bushwick, my choice pie at the moment is the 'Whipper Snapper' ($17). The pizza builds a thick, creamy layer of mozzarella and rich, faintly goaty capra sarda atop which it's dotted with snap peas and pancetta, a drizzle of white balsamic over the top.
Wheated, a new pizzeria and cocktail bar, is slated to open in early 2013 in Ditmas Park. Some of you who read Slice may be familiar with one half of the couple behind the place: David Sheridan, who's sprouting Wheated with his wife, Kim McAdam. (We interviewed Sheridan here and had a backyard pizza tasting here.)