'Eataly' on Serious Eats
Starting on Monday, Eataly's Rossopomodoro will be hosting a rotating group of NYC's best-known Neapolitan pizzamakers for a series of collaborative dinners called Pizza a Quattro Mani. Each Monday for the next 5 weeks will feature a different pizzaiolo, beginning with Mathieu Palombino of Motorino on February 20. Luzzo's Kesté, Numero 28 Pizzeria, and Forcella will cook alongside Rossopomodoro's Rosario Granieri on subsequent Mondays. The Motorino-Rossopomodoro menu appears after the jump.
First off, let's be clear: this is not the thin, crisp pizza al taglio you'd find in Rome. It's a much closer cousin to focaccia genovese, soft and spongy. Chasing my best memories of Genoa, I chose a piece piled with onions.
On one recent visit, the fresh-tasting tomatoes on the focaccia perfectly balanced the savory cheese and chewy olive oil-slicked bread. Another time, the tomatoes and oil added so much moisture to the bread that the slice basically dissolved. But the toppings are luscious: the mozzarella just crispy and browned on top but with a fresh squeakiness underneath. The tomatoes have a bright, clean flavor. It can be a bit messy to eat, and it's much safer to carry in a pizza box than in a bag.