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Snapshots from Italy: Chasing Pizza Bianca in Rome

Many foods have their particular fans; some induce outright passion. But few incite love and praise like the Roman pizza bianca. Ed's devotion to Jim Lahey's version is well-documented, and Jeffrey Steingarten has written about the bread with rapture usually reserved for poetry and rigor more typical of a PhD thesis than a bakery review. (There must be something magical in those ovens.) The pizza bianca bears little resemblance to any New York, Chicago, or Neapolitan pie. A simple dough of flour, water, and yeast is swiped with olive oil and sprinkled with salt—no cheese, tomato, or pepperoni in...

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