'Frank Bruni' on Serious Eats

Ambiance Is Not a Topping

"It sometimes seems as if he's living in an alternate pizza universe—one where Papa John is Chris Bianco and ambiance should be a topping that you can order like fennel sausage." Mic check 1, 2, 1, 2. Bubbles B in the place to be. Comin' outta retirement to work ya like a fireman. What's good, sliceheads? I know it's been a minute, but I have to break you off with a little something. I made a move to the Upper East Side (it's not all bad—Central Park, Museum Mile, D'Ag hags) and can't say much for the pizza thus far,... More

Frank Bruni on the Great Artisanal Pizza Boom

New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni examines the Great Pizza Boom of 2009 in his story "The Cult of Artisanal Pizza." It's a must-read that packs a lot of info. Let's summarize. The Cliffs Notes Version Bruni makes the claim that the artisanal boom started in 2004 with the opening of Franny's and Una Pizza Napoletana within a few months of each other. "Both brought a new kind of cachet (and vanity) to pizza making and pizza eating in this city. Both changed its demographics" He purposely focuses on newer pizzerias, leaving out old favorites "because they’re products... More

Co. Company's Jim Lahey Responds to 'New York Times' One-Star Review

Co. Company's Jim Lahey (above) is not happy about his one-star review in the New York Times. He tells the New York Observer: "We've been open only 90 days," he said. "We have not had a chance to even breathe in 90 days. What the fuck are we being reviewed by the New York Times for, you know, 90 days into being open? It makes no sense."If I knew we were going to be under the microscope, I would have possibly treated the opening of the restaurant a lot differently," he continued. "I didn't open this restaurant to get... More

Frank Bruni's Pizza Moment with Co. and Motorino

On the New York Times's Diner's Journal food blog today, Frank Bruni has a pizza moment, saying that everyone lately has been talking about the crusty, saucy, cheesy stuff. He then goes on to talk about, yes, Co. and Motorino. Geesh, now even I am officially sick of hearing about Co., so I'm not going quote extensively from Bruni's post. Suffice it to say that he digs the Popeye pie there: "one of the most memorable things I've eaten in months."... More

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