[Photograph: Adam Kuban] Who's Using It Fornino, Williamsburg, Brooklyn Ken's Artisan Pizza, Portland, Oregon Roberta's, Bushwick, Brooklyn Lolita, Cleveland Motorino, Brooklyn/Manhattan Il Cane Rosso, Dallas La Piazza al Forno, Glendale, Arizona Emilia's Pizzeria,* Berkeley, California I'm calling it: Hot soppressata is fast becoming the it topping among serious pizzamakers. Why do I say this? Peep the places at right that feature it as an option. (In an earlier draft of this post, I had Philadelphia's Pizzeria Stella on the list, but the options seems to have dropped off its pre-opening working-draft menu.) It took backyard-pizzamaker-turned-soon-to-be-pro Pauile Gee to call... More

Clockwise from top left: Emilia's Pizzeria during a recent friends-and-family night, owner-pizzaiolo Keith Freilich, a plain pie hot out of the oven. [Photographs: Adam Kuban] Emilia's Pizzeria 2995 Shattuck Avenue, Berkeley CA 94705 (at Ashby Avenue; map); emiliaspizzeria.com Getting There: By car, it's at the corner of Shattuck and Ashby avenues; closest BART stop is the Ashby Avenue Station Pizza Style: Thin-crust, New York–coal-oven-esque Oven Type: A very hot Wolf "Pizza Grande" gas-fired oven The Skinny: Whether you're a whiny New Yorker looking for familiar-tasting pizza or someone who's never set foot in the Big Apple, the pizza at... More