Chicago Upstart Great Lake Has Country's Best Pizza
Alan Richman (left) and Lucali proprietor-pizzaiolo Mark Iacono (right) hold a copy of the June 2009 issue of "GQ" in front of Iacono's Lucali (the No. 2 pizza in the U.S.) at press event celebrating the story's May 19 publication. The issue contains Richman's "American Pie," a list of the top 25 pizzerias in the country.
The story is much too monumental to really do justice here. (Richman sampled 386 pizzas at 109 different pizzerias.) Go read it for yourself on GQ.com—or do yourself a favor and buy the magazine on the newsstand. It comes out tomorrow (May 19). For pizza freaks, this one really is worth having in print. Here are the salient points:
Italians Do Pizza Wrong; the U.S. Gets It Oh So Right
I totally agree with Richman here:
Pizza was created by the Italians—or maybe by the Greeks, who brought it to Naples, but let’s not pile on the bad news. Right now it justly belongs to us. We care more about it. We eat more of it, and unlike the Italians, we appreciate it at dinner, at lunch, and at breakfast, when we have it cold, standing up, to make hangovers go away. Italians don’t really understand pizza. They think of it as knife-and-fork food, best after the sun goes down.
Pizza isn’t as fundamental to Italy as it is to America. Over there, it plays a secondary role to pasta, risotto, and polenta. To be candid, I think they could do without it. Not us. Over here, it’s one of the few foreign foods we’ve embraced wholeheartedly, made entirely our own.
Oh, snap. Suck it, Italy. [More analysis, after the jump.]
Editor's note: In mid June, Slice reader Lance Roberts emailed me, asking if I'd help him complete his pizza itinerary. He was visiting New York City from Los Angeles, and he wanted to pack in as much pizza as he could—but only the best. I gave him some recs. He came, he ate, and then he wrote. What follows is a wonderful tale of 2.5 days of pizza mania. Buon appetito! —The Mgmt.
An N.Y.C. Pizza Tour from an L.A. Perspective
As a Los Angeleno who grew up in Detroit, it's a little odd that I love pizza so much. Neither city is known for great pies, but as someone who fell in love with the stuff from an early age, I learned to make do. I grew up on Little Caesars, and when I turned 15, I got a job at Toarmina's Pizza in Michigan so I could learn how to make my own pies (and eat pizza five days a week).
When I reached the peak of my limited powers in the kitchen and was looking for better pizza, I took trips to Chicago, where I fell in love with deep dish. It took a few years of living in Los Angeles (and hitting up 50-some different places) to make me realize that thin crust was the way to go. I found some pizza I really liked liked. Then I climbed what I consider the Mount Everest of pizza—Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix, where I hope someday to have my last meal.
Finally I felt like I "knew" pizza. But there was one big gap on my resume. I'd never had a slice in New York. That all changed earlier this month.
With Adam Kuban's help and some suggestions from Slice fans and friends, I made up a very aggressive itinerary designed to give me the best pizza New York City had to offer. Whenever I try a new place I get a plain cheese or Margherita pie to get a baseline, so it was only fair I practiced the same methodology in New York (with a few exceptions). The results of the experiment? To put it mildly, my head nearly exploded. After the jump, seven of New York's best pizzas—and one real stinker.
I took a visit out there last week and spent a considerable amount of time talking to Domenico DeMarco, 71. I was there to investigate the price spike but ended up learning a lot about the 150 or so pizzas he makes a day, such as cooking the pies at 750°F for five minutes; the use of Israeli basil and Italian flour.
But there is one thing I'd like to clear up. DeMarco uses four types of cheeses—not three. There are three types of mozzarella and of course the signature Parmigiano-reggiano he hits every pie with just before serving them.
Anyway, I noticed repeated media accounts of just three cheeses, and I wanted to set the record straight. And one other thing, DeMarco says a slice cost 20¢ when he opened in 1964. A pie cost a buck. Those were the times.
—Adam G.
Isabella's Oven, 365 Grand Street, New York NY 10002 (near Essex Street; map); 212-529-5206
It's been a while since the Bubbster has had much to say about anything on this fair weblog. I've been astray for some time now, but I've found my way home. Although, I must say, it doesn't feel much like home in recent weeks. Isabella's Oven causing such an uproar on the site because of a recent dip in quality certainly isn't music to my ears. And who wants to respond to comments in CAPS from Jeff B when he suggests that Two Boots is on point. Isabella's on its worst day would take Two Boots to special ed. That's almost as bad as Prairie condemning Pizza 33 without trying it but instead passing judgment based on a picture of its Margherita on Flickr. Say what you will about 33, but just say it after you've tried it!
The last time I was at Isabella's, Luigi was there, too. I had brought a friend to share in the magic, and Luigi didn't disappoint—he never did. It pains me to think that the joint is now among the chain Patsy's of this city. Isabella's was much more than that. I feel like I'm writing an obituary right now, but let's not get carried away—Isabella's management may take notice and set things straight.
Alright, enough of the hijinx. Sliceheads, just because I've been incommunicado of late does not mean I haven't been pounding the pavement (and the Zantac, for that matter) making sure that I'm staying on top of all things NY-PIE!
Posted by Adam Kuban, November 29, 2006 at 9:48 AM
Lucali
Address: 575 Henry Street, Brooklyn NY 11231; Carroll Gardens, b/n Carroll Street and First Place [map] Getting There: F train to Carroll Street Station; walk west to Henry; Lucali is on east side of street, about one-fourth block south of Carroll Cost: Plain pies (14-inch), $17; calzones, $7; cash only The Skinny: Using a gas-assisted wood-fired oven that he built himself, owner-pizzaiolo Mark Iacono lovingly crafts pies inspired by legendary Di Fara proprietor Dom DeMarco—with a similar high-quality three-cheese blend and the signature pour of olive oil.
The New York Times checks in with a review of Lucali, the Carroll Gardens newcomer patterned after Di Fara. And, like Di Fara, Lucali appears in the "$25 and Under" column:
After two years of preparation, Carroll Gardens newcomer Lucali opened, somewhat fittingly, on Columbus Day. Not long after, the Chowhounders started yapping about it, with most barking their approval. At the urging of Slice reader Mark H., I headed over last night to see what all the fuss was about.
The joint is the creation of Mark Iacono and takes the place of a soda fountain once known for making some of the last real egg creams in Brooklyn. Locals can take comfort, however, in the fact that Mr. Iacono was raised in the neighborhood and still lives around the corner. Not only that, but much of the equipment—including the espresso machine—comes from Leonardo's Pizza, which was sadly replaced by a Dunkin' Donuts around this time last year. The recipes, too, are from the neighborhood, having come from Mr. Iacono's grandma and aunts.
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