'Midtown' on Serious Eats
It's been named one of New York's Top Ten Pizza Feuds of All Time and it may have finally been laid to rest. The New York Times reports that the Midtown spat that caused slice prices to drop to a new low in the spring of this year (when the dollar slice chain 2 Bros. moved into the neighborhood of Bombay/6 Ave. Pizza), may have found resolution with a price compromise.
It's worth noting that the gluten-free pizza at Don Antonio is wood-fired gluten-free pizza. That's not unique in all of pizzadom, but I do believe it is unique for NYC.
A price war sprang up between Bombay Fast Food/6 Ave. Pizza and neighboring Joey Pepperoni's. While Joey's isn't really entangled in the thick of it, they initiated the first price drop from $1.50 to $1.00. The family run Indian pizza parlor and candy shop Bombay had no choice but to slash their prices as well. But things get really nasty when an all out 'Game of Thrones' style power/price struggle began to escalate with the arrival of a third slice shop, a 2 Bros. outlet.
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately. [Photograph: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt] Since opening a month ago, we've had a great first look and 'Top This' recipe post from mid-town Manhattan's newest Neapolitan pizzeria, Don Antonio. The Antonio Starita and Roberto Caporuscio pizzaoli partnership here guarantees that the pizzas are gonna be the real deal, but when I saw the Girella ($21), I had to get my mitts on it. Why the Girella? Because this roulade of mozzarella looks freakin' awesome:...
It's no surprise that the menus at Kesté and Midtown Manhattan newcomer Don Antonio are similar, but there are some exciting new pies at the Midtown joint — including the Montanara Starita, a version of the deep-fried pizza that's been cropping up among the newer Neapolitan places. Slice got a sneak peek at some of the items exclusive to Don Antonio. Peep the slideshow here to get the skinny.
Pizzas are a little bit pricey for what they are but not outrageous and none breaks the $20 barrier, despite some fancy-soundin' ingredients. The menu ranges from the basic (classic Margherita, a pepperoni pie) to the more sophisticated toppings Todd English is known for (like his signature fig and prosciutto pizza, or spit-roasted chicken pie with arugula pesto).
Chef Edward Sylvia (the mastermind behind the midtown sandwich mecca Cer Té and their pizza spin-off Pizza by Cer Té), roasts cauliflower—yes, cauliflower—with merguez spices and the Tunisian hot red pepper paste harissa and tops pizza with it. Genius, we know.
I almost hate to recommend this place to you, since it's about two blocks from my office and is going to go into my personal lunchtime heavy rotation. But I didn't start this site to keep pizza a secret from you. So go. It's worth the trip.
Sometimes I think it's enough to show you all a picture and simply write, This exists. So, friends, This tempura pizza at Sake Bar Hagi exists.
You probably remember pizza bagels from your youth. I know I do. Slap some canned pizza sauce on a bagel half, grate some mozzarella over it, shake a little Parmesan and oregano on it (if you're gettin' fancy), and nuke it in the radar range. Hear that beep? Your after-school snack is ready.
Bella Napoli is a spacious pizzeria located minutes from the Empire State Building. After a quick reheat in the gas powered deck oven, the Grandma slice with a tantalizing dollop of cooked red sauce arrived.
Click me bigger to read poster » [Photographs: Adam Kuban] Hardcore Oprah fans may remember that in 2006 Ms. Winfrey and her friend Gayle King went on the hunt for the best pizza in the U.S. Among other joints (Ledo in College Park, Maryland; Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix) they put the spotlight on Mariella Pizza in New York City. Click the photo above to read the sign. One of the best pizzas in the country is just steps from Gayle's New York City office? How convenient. I don't know about you, but when I've lost track of time at...
The toppings were good, particularly the mozzarella and the meatballs, broken up though they were and resembling sausage. But the crust was great. Billed as a "baker's" pizza on the menu, it's somewhere between a grandma and a Sicilian pizza, with more rise and sponginess to it than the former but not the often overwhelming volume of the latter. And it has just the right crunch-to-chew ratio.
So while Stout's pizza may be a tasty snack or quick meal, it's only close to Wisconsin-style pizza. Come to think of it, this may be the first time I can reverse-pizza-snob NYC: Stout's Wisconsin-style pizza is pretty good ... for pizza outside Wisconsin.
Bottom line? It's not the best example of New York-style pizza in the city—but it's a solid example of the form, the bare-bones eatery's got charm in spades, and when you're looking for a bite near Carnegie Hall, it's one of your very best bets.
Etta L. emails us: "I'm bringing my family to New York in November. Would like really good pizza in the Midtown area, preferably in a clean (and pretty) restaurant or pizzeria. Any suggestions?" ... Slice hivemind, buzz away!
@EddiesPizzaNY: "We r on 40th between 5th and 6th. Free pizza starts at 12."...
Reaching in to the Slice mailbag, we've got ... [Photograph: Adam Kuban] Adam,I know the "classic New York slice" is out of vogue. There are number of reasons for this, including what I believe to be the primary one: The margins on making decent pizza slices are terrible and no new pizza places, especially in Manhattan, have an easy time even paying the rent, let alone other expenses. So everyone new looks for new haute cuisine gimmicks, be they coal- or wood-firing, weight or quality of ingredients.Meanwhile, the slice, which New York used to own—and in my teenage years in...
Wood-Oven Pizzeria from Former No. 28 Pizzaman Salvatore Olivella, formerly of No. 28, L'Asso, and Pie by the Pound, has opened 57 Napoli Pizza e Vino. It opened at 11 a.m. If you're lunching late today, you might check it out. The pies will be sold as 12-inch rounds or 18-inch pizza alla metro (sort of skateboard shaped). All from a wood-fired oven. Plus a few salads, antipasti, piedine, pastas. 57 Napoli Pizza e Vino 120 East 57th Street, New York NY 10022 (Park/Lexington, upstairs from C'est Bon Café; map) 4/5/6/N/R/W trains to Lexington-59th Street Station 212-750-4586...