'Naples-style' on Serious Eats

Daily Slice: San Matteo, NYC

The first time I stopped by San Matteo on the Upper East Side, I ordered a Margherita, and to be honest, I was a little disappointed. The moisture from the mozzarella made the crust go limp, and the cheese had not melted fully. Was there something wrong with the huge wood-fired oven? More

Openings: Pizzeria Locale, Boulder, Colorado

Pizzeria Locale has taken delivery on the oven you see above, a Stefano Ferrara "mobile"* oven, has it installed, and appears to be in the final stages of training staff. Self-described as "a contemporary pizzeria inspired by the traditional pizzerias of Napoli," Locale will be home to the first Ferrara oven in the state. Target opening date: "late January." [via Caleb Schiff] More

Stamford, Connecticut: Tappo Restaurant, a Naples-Style Newcomer

If the menu at Tappo was suddenly culled to that one page, a beacon of 14 pizza offerings, we'd be none the wiser. This isn't because the rest of the menu doesn't deserve it's own nod, because in fact it does. But it's because the pies at Tappo are good enough to make us believe this corner of Connecticut is serious about staking a claim to traditional Neopolitan pizza. More

'Lexus Magazine' on the Neapolitan Pizza Surge

Who knew Lexus had its own magazine? (Lexus owners, I suppose.) From it, a story on Neapolitan pizza, and this bit from Kesté's Rosario Procino: Procino says he's just happy he can eat the pizza he grew up on: "For us Italians it's like bagels for New Yorkers. I eat one pizza a day. They make fun of me at the restaurant and tell me I'm going to eat up the business. But, I'm a pizza addict." There are worse addictions, I suppose.... More

Bruce Hill to Open Pizzeria in San Francisco, Will Be Called 'Zero Zero'

Bruce Hill, crafter of pizza awesomeness at Pizzeria Picco. [Photograph: Bix] Bay Area foodos probably already know the name Bruce Hill. As do regular readers of Slice. He's the executive chef and partner at Bix in San Francisco, Picco in Larkspur, and, most important to Slice'rs, Pizzeria Picco (also in Larkspur, right next door to Picco, in fact). Well, folks, Mr. Hill will be opening a new pizzeria in San Francisco proper. To be called Zero Zero, it "will feature chef Hill's famous wood-fired pizzas, artisan pastas, grilled meats and seafood, house-made salumi, antipasti, and seasonal organic salads." You... More

Naples 45: Skip the Neapolitan Pizza Here and Get Their New York–Style Slice Instead

VPN certification can only get you so far. Sure, you can meet the standards, but that still leaves plenty of room to really screw up a pizza. Naples 45 isn't worth visiting for its Naples-style pies. BUT WAIT! There is a take-out section that serves "New York–style pizza by the slice, seemingly as an afterthought. These slices are GREAT, and at $1.90 are a steal. More

Madison, Wisconsin: Pizza Brutta [field report]

Here's another piece of community-submitted intel from the field from Guil Barros. Thanks, Guil! And remember, if YOU want to submit your review, here's how. —The Mgmt. [Photographs: Guil Barros] Pizza Brutta 1805 Monroe Street, Madison WI 53711 (map); 608-257-2120; pizzabrutta.com Pizza style: Neapolitan Oven type: Wood-fired Notes: Possibly the only Neapolitan pizza in Madison? Price: $7 for 12-inch Margherita Walking into Pizza Brutta is like waking up to that wonderful day in Livorno, sitting on plastic chairs at the beach... but with nice wooden benches :) The oven and large marble prep slab are front and center, the staff... More

NYC: La Pizza Fresca (or, 'How the VPN Is Like THX Sound')

Alejandro Rivas has been the pizzaiolo at New York City's La Pizza Fresca since it opened in 1997 and fired up its wood-burning oven. He has made tens of thousands of pizzas since, working lunch and dinner six days a week. He gets Saturdays off, when his boss takes over the oven, but I bet the pies are not quite as good on those days. I asked Rivas if he ever eats pizza on his day off. He looked at me like I was nuts. More

The Guardian's Tim Hayward Visits Franco Manca Pizza in Chiswick, London

"It's not burned, it's just slightly carbonized." —Tim Hayward Tim Hayward, of Britain's Guardian newspaper, visits Neapolitan pizzeria Franco Manca in Chiswick, West London, in this video on the Guardian's website. You'll have to click through—the video wasn't embeddable, but it's worth watching.* According to Hayward, Franco Manca's Chiswick location has been getting buzz since opening. It opened in early December 2009; there's also a location in Brixton.... More

Video: 9-Year-Old Pizza-Making Kid

Aww, cute. CNN has the story of nine-year-old Johnny Di Palma, who makes pizza at his dad's pizzeria, Antico Pizza Napoletana in Atlanta. After opening only four months ago, Antico Pizza has been getting a lot of buzz in the city. The video, after the jump.... More

NYC: Luzzo's New Quadrata Square Pie (Plus Two New Pizza-Related Menu Items)

"It is ironic that square pies, stromboli, and fried calzones are considered new here, worthy of press releases and reviews, while they have been staples of the city's pizzerias since time immemorial." Luzzo's 211 First Avenue, New York NY 10003 (12th Street; map); 212-473-7447; luzzos.com Pizza Style: Neapolitan Oven Type: Coal- and wood-fired (and in the case of the Quadrata, electric and gas as well) The Skinny: Three "new" forms of pizza and pizza dough–based dishes that will be familiar to most New Yorkers deliver the goods Price: Quadrata 12-inch, $17; 16-inch, $21 When Luzzo's opened five years ago it... More

Brooklyn: Toby's Public House (a Checkup)

Clockwise from top left: Toby's is usually packed, especially in summer, when this photo was taken. It still weirds me out when a Slice review gets posted at a pizza joint. The pancetta-mushroom–black garlic pie and a Margherita. [Photograph: Adam Kuban] Toby's Public House 686 Sixth Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (at 21st Street; map); 718-788-1186; tobyspublichouse.com Oven Type: Wood-burning Pie Style: Neapolitan/New York–Neapolitan The Skinny: A relaxing, laid-back pub whose name belies the fact that there are some first-class pizzas coming out of the rustic wood-burning oven here. My God, man, get the black garlic pie! Previously: Toby's (6/30/2008)... More

Philadelphia: Pizzeria Stella Reviewed in the 'Philadelphia Inquirer'

[Photographs: Pizzeria Stella] The Philadelphia Inquierer's Craig LaBan files a rave review of restaurateur Stephen Starr's relatively new Pizzeria Stella in the City of Brotherly Love. Did someone say love? Because, damn, LaBan LOVES the pies here. While LaBan still views Marc Vetri's Osteria as the gold standard of pizza in Philly, "...no restaurant has refined the eat-in pizza experience with the single-minded focus, quality ingredients, and overall finesse of Stella." Oh, and after the jump, our man Ed Levine makes a cameo in LaBan's review.... More

The Good Pie: An Outstanding Blend of St. Louis and Naples

Our man in Chicago, Daniel Zemans, checks in with another piece of intel from the road. Today, St. Louis. —The Mgmt. [Photographs: Daniel Zemans] The Good Pie 3137 Olive Street, Saint Louis MO 63103 (map); 314-289-9391‎; thegoodpie.com Pizza Style: Neapolitan Oven Type: Wood The Skinny: A perfect blend of St. Louis and Naples, The Good Pie is a whole lot better than its modest name Price: $9 to $16 Notes: Closed Sunday When Mike Randolph and his wife moved to St. Louis to be closer to her family, the 2005 graduate of the New England Culinary Institute and former cook... More

More Posts