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Entries tagged with 'Neapolitan'
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Naples: A Trio of Pizzas at Pizzeria Starita

Thought you all might want a little break from my recent ramblings. Here's a field report from Gianluca Rottura (who you might know round these parts as nextgospel). Enjoy! --The Mgmt. [Photographs: Gianluca Rottura] Unfortunately, I must make this article for Slice as short as possible. If there were no limits, I could write a book on my lunch at Pizzeria Starita. For those of you familiar with Kesté Pizza & Vino in New York City, the co-owner and pizzaiolo there, Roberto Caporuscio, perfected his skills at this Neapolitan landmark, which was featured in the Sophia Loren flick L'Oro di...

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Gran Gusto in Cambridge, Mass.: As Neapolitan As It Gets

”Is not a’ fake oven like weet legna in front and deh back is gas. Forno a legna, solo legna.” In every way, Gran Gusto is a product of Naples. That’s not just a comment on the owners of this trattoria (who hail from just outside Naples) or its menu (heavy on the eggplant, seafood, and handmade pasta). The restaurant runs on Neapolitan time. It’s a bit dysfunctional, in a way that’s endearing if you’re patient, frustrating if you’re not. Nearly all ingredients are flown over from the old country: better olive oil; higher prices. Service is competent, but aggressive—as...

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It's Not Pizza Napoletana if You Don't Follow the Rules

Photograph from stu_spivack on Flickr Pizza Margherita will now be recognized as a "regional specialty" in Naples by the European Union under its official name, the Pizza Napoletana. This means anyone claiming to sell a Pizza Napoletana must now adhere to the rules of what constitutes a Pizza Napoletana, as conceived by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (the True Neapolitan Pizza Association): The diameter must be no more than 35 cm (14 inches) in diameter and no thicker than 1/3 of a centimeter at its center The tomato base must be made from the San Marzano variety of tomatoes...

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Openings: Zero Otto Nove

View Slice's Bronx Pizza Map » Food maven Arthur Schwarz reports on Zero Otto Nove, a newish Neapolitan joint on Arthur Avenue in The Bronx that has somehow managed to fly under the Slice radar: Roberto’s has been a destination restaurant for years. Now Zero Otto Nove has become one. It is already, after only a few months in business, drawing customers from the hinterlands, and for several good reasons. Top among them, I am sure, is the Neapolitan-style pizza that may be the best you’ve ever had in the U.S., and better than many in Naples, as I...

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Naples-Style Pizza Cart in Arlington, Virginia

Photograph courtesy of the Pupatella pizza cart. Melissa McCart (Counter Intelligence) writes about a type of street cart you don't often see, a Neapolitan pizza cart. It's in Arlington, Virginia's Ballston neighborhood: Enzo Algarme and Anastasiya Laufenberg weren't kidding when they said they know pizza. The name of Ballston's new Pupatella Food Cart—pupatella is slang for doll in Naples—is a reference to Algarme's grandmother who inspired his love of cooking. Although they've only been open a week and are making do with a standard oven as opposed to the wood-burning one that's becoming the standard in the area's top...

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Pizza in Manila: Nuccio's

Ladies and gents, my homeslices, every now and then one of you writes in with reviews and info about far-flung pizzerias that are way out of the range of typical Slice coverage. Today, we've got such an item for you. Mark Cohen, who lives part of the year in Manila, submitted a couple dispatches about some pizzerias in the Philippines. Here's the first of his reports. —The Mgmt. Words and photographs by Mark Cohen | I grew up in the New York City area and lived there until I left for college. I was a typical New York pizza freak—except...

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Isabella's Oven: One Great Pizza on a Saturday Night

Update (1/28/2009): Isabella's Oven Closed Until Further Notice photographs courtesy Isabella's Oven I had a truly great pizza in a new pizza place on Saturday, and though I'm not going to tell you that I have seen pizza's future and its name is Isabella's Oven, the way Jon Landau did a zillion years ago when he saw Springsteen live and declared that he had seen rock and roll's future, I will say I had a pie that would easily make a New York City top ten list and maybe a national one as well. Now in New York, when you...

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Wellington, New Zealand: Pizza Pomodoro

Slice has a pen pal over in New Zealand who checks in with this report on Pizza Pomodoro in Wellington. Will F. also tipped us to Al Volo in Auckland, New Zealand, late last year. —The Mgmt. Words and Photo by Will F. | Pizza Pomodoro is a precious nugget of toothsomeness that sits nestled in an alley off of an alley. It also sits next to an alley. It's hidden enough that entering its two-table dining space, if it weren't for the neon sign on the facade, would feel like entering the headquarters of some kind of secret society....

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Frank Bruni Disses Il Brigante

Remember that rave review Village Voice food critic Robert Sietsema gave Il Brigante the other week? New York Times food critic Frank Bruni says, "huh," slamming the new pizzeria and, by extension, Sietsema. If his point is that Neapolitan pizza is unduly romanticized, and that your standard pizza pie in Naples is not necessarily some gastronomically wondrous epiphany, then O.K., there’s some merit to what he’s saying. But his point seems to be that he loved this pie. My lunch companion and I found nothing lovable about it. I haven't been yet, but now I'm even more curious......

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The City's New Best Pizza?

The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema thinks he's found it at Il Brigante: At its heart, Il Brigante is a pizzeria, and a damn good one. The rear wall is dominated by a flickering wood-burning hearth inside a limestone proscenium, where a sweating and grunting pizzaiolo is the star of his own small repertory theater. In the style of southern Italy, the 10-inch pies are intended for individual consumption. In fact, the margherita ($10) is the city's most perfect evocation of the true Naples style (even surpassing top spots like Una Pizza Napoletana and La Pizza Fresca). Starting with an irregular...

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