Little did I know, more than 10 years ago, that the late-night slices I was eating from Pizza Wagon in Bay Ridge were better than average. Far better than average, in fact. With their not too greasy slick of surface oil; their thinner-than-average, crisp-pliant crust; and their bright-orange well-balanced mix of cheese and sauce, these slices flew out of the oven and into my mouth, day after day and, perhaps more accurately, night after night. More