At Slice we ever endeavor to keep expanding our knowledge about all things pizza. As such, our Regional Pizza Style Index is always growing as we learn about new regional varieties around the globe. The time has come to add some updates to our style guide!
'Roman pizza' on Serious Eats
Stefano Callegari, a pizza pioneer in Rome, owns several outstanding pizzerias and one pizza al taglio shop called 00100 PIZZA. The name refers to both the grade of flour, "00", used to make the dough and the zip code for Rome, "00100". Unlike the other pizza al taglio shops, this tiny place does several things differently.
When I got wind of their new Roman style pizza, I started to think maybe as Scott Wiener suggested there really is a Roman pizza invasion happening in America. In my estimation it seemed early for the chains to be jumping on the bandwagon, but if any chain was going to do it, I was glad that it was Bertucci's.
There is no such thing as Italian pizza. We're seeing a LOT of Neapolitan representation these days, but if New York is any indication, I'd say it's time to brush up on your Julius Caesar and prepare for a visit from the Roman pizza army.
Delarosa, while still a great exemplar of the power of seasonal, fresh ingredients on pizza, falls short of its two predecessors. This isn't to say that Delarosa is not good. It is—very, and the Marina restaurant is almost always packed to the gills. However, when considering their pizzas, I continually find myself drawing unfavorable comparisons to the Italian-style classics of Beretta and the winning California pies at Starbelly.
A Roman antipasto celebrating springtime, Vignarola brings together fava beans, artichokes, and peas--vegetables which are traditionally planted in Roman vineyards in between the rows of vines. These vegetables grow in the shade of the grape leaves and help to enrich the vineyard soil. Andrea Dal Monte of Campo de' Fiori translates this Roman antipasto into a pizza perfectly suited for the warm summer months. We visited Dal Monte at his Park Slope Pizzeria where he showed us how he makes the Vignarola pizza, topping the thin and crisp Roman-style square crust with a vibrant tomato sauce, a perfectly sweet pea spread, baby lettuces, arugula, sauteed artichokes, and green beans. Dal Monte artfully finishes the pie with lemon zest and paper-thin wisps of Pecorino Romano cheese. One bite, and you may as well be sitting in a Roman piazza in the springtime, sipping a caffè ristretto, conversing with Fellini. We urge you, do try this pizza at home.
So we're cheating a little bit this week, since the block between 6th and 7th Avenues on Bleecker is technically subdivided into 4 smaller blocks due to the off-grid street intersections. It's still somewhat of a pizza hot spot in the city though, with three New York joints (Joe's, Bleecker, and ZPizza), a Neapolitan pie joint (Kesté), a Roman pizza spot (Roma), and the New York-Neapolitan pie restaurant John's. But we're interested in one thing: who makes the best order-by-the-slice pizza?
The hotter your pizza is from the oven at Farinella, in New York's Tribeca neighborhood, the better it will be. That's true of all pizza, yes; but when it's got Farinella's crust, it's particularly true.