'Roman-style' on Serious Eats

Daily Slice: Pala, Lower East Side, NYC

Pala on Allen Street riffs on Roman-style pizzas sold by the foot and served on pizza peels. The funghi e salsiccia pie ($17) we tried was plenty for two, generously topped with fior di latte and rich fennel-spiked sausage. The pizza was well-salted and had a delicate hit of hot pepper. The woodsy flavor of the mushrooms seeped into the crust, imbuing it with mushroomyness. My only complaint was that the crust will only appeal to bread lovers who want their pizza soft and pillowy. For me, it was too close to doughy. More

Hopewell NJ: Nomad Now Serving Roman-Style Pizza

From my inbox this morning, some intel from Slice reader and pizza fan Jan K. —The Mgmt. Nomad started as a truck-based operation, cooking pizzas out of a restored 1949 REO Speedwagon. [Photograph: Adam Kuban] Ed,As Adam well knows, Nomad Pizza in Hopewell, New Jersey, offers a very fine forno a legno Neapolitan pizza. Heck, now that he has shuttered his shop, Anthony Mangieri has visited twice (so it must have been good enough to get him back a second time).In December I was there for my weekly visit, and Stalin Bedon, one of the co-owners, reported that his partner... More

When in Rome: Dar Poeta

[Photographs: Nick Solares] Dar Poeta Vicolo del Bologna 45, Rome 00153, Italy; map); 39-06-6830-7769; Pizza Style: Roman Oven Type: Wood The Skinny: Wonderfully prepared Roman-style pizza with a crisp, yeast-free crust and fresh ingredients. The abundance of locals and the Italian-only menu indicate that this is the real deal, not a tourist trap (although they will gladly have you) Price: €6 to €9 It takes a bit of work to find Dar Poeta, tucked away as it is in one of the winding back alleys of the bustling Trastevere District of Rome. You may be seduced by the more... More

Snapshots from Italy: Chasing Pizza Bianca in Rome

Many foods have their particular fans; some induce outright passion. But few incite love and praise like the Roman pizza bianca. Ed's devotion to Jim Lahey's version is well-documented, and Jeffrey Steingarten has written about the bread with rapture usually reserved for poetry and rigor more typical of a PhD thesis than a bakery review. (There must be something magical in those ovens.) The pizza bianca bears little resemblance to any New York, Chicago, or Neapolitan pie. A simple dough of flour, water, and yeast is swiped with olive oil and sprinkled with salt—no cheese, tomato, or pepperoni in... More

Openings: Golosi, Midtown Near Grand Central

Urban Daddy: "Run by a young Sicilian pizza wunderkind named Francisco, you'll want to pop in to Golosi (glutton in Italian) when you're looking for a manageable treat—three inches should do—of a crispy (the flour is imported from Italy, and the dough is made with olive oil) skateboard-shaped pie." Golosi: 125 Park Avenue, New York NY 10017 (b/n 41st and 42nd; map); 212-922-1169... More


Manetta's is in a section of Queens I call the pizza triangle: cornered by Long Island City, Astoria, and Forest Hills. It's also a stone's throw from Silvercup Studios, where they shoot The Sopranos. If Tony and Carmela and Dr. Melfi are in the mood for pizza, they call over to Manetta's. So if your pizza order is backed up at lunch, chances are it's because the cast of The Sopranos has placed an order for 50 pies. Don't complain, if you know what's good for you. You may end up like Adriana or Steve Buscemi's Tony B. Manetta's owner,... More

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