You'd think that working right in the heart of Little Italy, great pizza options would abound by the Serious Eats office. Sal's is one of the two slice options in the neighborhood. And while it may not be the greatest, there are some tricks to make it pretty good.
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[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt] If the slices at Rubirosa are all about thin crust and great sauce, then the slices at Sal's a few blocks away are their complement: they've got some of the cheesiest pies around. Generally, this is a harbinger of bad things to come: very few great dough-slingers feel the need to hide their crusts under a thick blanket of melted mozzarella. But at Sal's, this is not the case. The crust is classic New York. Thin, but not absurdly so, with a nice crisp, floury char on the bottom and a thin layer of tender,...