Entries tagged with 'Sam Sifton'
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Sam Sifton Too Good for 'The City's Best Pizza'

The brussels sprouts and pancetta pizza is, according to Sam Sifton, "Like something from a magic act, a dog speaking BBC English. It is great and unsettling, far better than imagination would dictate." Translation: "Good." [Photograph: Robyn Lee] What do those New York Times stars mean? What distinguishes a "good" restaurant from a great one, a three-star from a four? It's a question often debated, never resolved, and hardly furthered by Sam Sifton's review this week of Motorino. My problem is not that he is so audacious as to name the city's best pizza. (We can't fault him for...

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The Pizza Cognition Theory

When I wrote my book Pizza: A Slice of Heaven, I asked Sam Sifton to talk about his Pizza Cognition Theory. I got to know Sam when he edited my food stories for the Dining section of the New York Times before he moved on to the paper's culture desk (he eventually moved back to the Dining section as restaurant critic, the title he holds now). Enough. Without futher ado, here's Sam's theory. —Ed Levine Slice founder and editor Adam Kuban (in striped shirt) at his eighth birthday party—a make-your-own-pizza affair. [Photograph: Adam Kuban] Pizza Cognition Theory There is a...

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Co. Company's Meatball Pizza One of Sam Sifton's Faves

[Photograph: Adam Kuban] Recently appointed New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton today unleashes the 11 best bites he has sampled so far in his new capacity at the paper. Co. Company makes the list: The Meatball Pizza at Co.: Jim Lahey's much debated Chelsea pizzeria is devoted almost to a fault to the excellence of its dough, as Frank Bruni sagely pointed out in his one-star review of the restaurant in the spring. But in recent months, Mr. Lahey's been dialing in his toppings and the use of his insanely hot oven; he's now putting out pies that...

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