'Sicilian slices' on Serious Eats

Sicilian Slice Crawl in Boston

New Yorkers may no more concede that Boston has a lively pizza scene than accept the Red Sox as the greatest team in baseball. Bostonians, of course, don’t care; their city sits squarely on what our Ed Levine has called “the pizza belt”—and from fancy-pants pies to the old-school Pizzeria Regina and Santarpiro’s, there’s plenty of good eating to be had. But what about the Sicilian? While we’ve written about the acclaimed Galleria Umberto before, more than a few commenters (and my own frequent dining companion) claimed that there were better square slices to be had. So on a... More

Great Sicilian Slices at Sal's Pizzeria in Mamaroneck

Sal's Pizzeria 316 Mamaroneck Avenue, Mamaroneck NY 10543; map); 914-381-2022 Getting There: Metro North New Haven Line to Mamroneck Station; Mamroneck is accessible from I-95 and the Boston Post Road Pizza Style:Neapolitan and Sicilian Oven Type: Gas The Skinny: Decent Neapolitan and outstanding Sicilian justify the lines that stretch up the block. The Sicilian has a crisp, airy crust a not-too-sweet sauce and gobs of oozing milky, cheese When I moved to Mamaroneck in the early 1990s to attend nearby Purchase College, my first order of business was to scope out the local food scene. During an early morning... More

Rose & Joe's Italian Bakery

Frankie and Mary Lou Cappezza, the former owners of the now-closed Corona Heights Pork Store, are my culinary E. F. Huttons. When they talk, I listen. So when they told me I had to check out Rose & Joe Italian Bakery in their old Astoria stomping grounds, I wasted no time getting there. As usual, they were right. Rose & Joe's wondrous braided semolina bread has plenty of character and flavor. But as good as the bread is here, Rose & Joe's ultimate triumph is their Sicilian pizza. In the back of the bakery a young woman sells slices:... More

Rizzo's

Most Sicilian pizza is just too thick for me, but Rizzo's in Astoria is the home of the wondrous thin-crust Sicilian slice. For 40 years, Joe Rizzo has been making thin-crust Sicilian pizza the way his father learned in Sicily. That means he uses homemade sauce (slightly sweet), full-cream mozzarella that lies ever so gently on top of the light—almost demure—crust, and just enough Romano cheese to give his pizza a little zing. When you walk into Rizzo's, all you'll see on the counter are rectangular trays of fresh-out-of-the-oven Sicilian pizza. After years of maintaining Sicilian-only pizza purity, Rizzo's... More

L & B Spumoni Gardens

... Or, 'You Eat the Nicest Pizza on a Honda'* The Garden of Eatin': L&B Spumoni Gardens, family-owned for more than 60 years (top left), is known for its out-of-this-world Sicilian slices. More a comestible complex than just a single restaurant, L&B boasts a pizzeria (whose pass-through window can be seen at top right), a spumoni stand, and a sit-down Italian eatery—all in a sprawling compound on 86th Street between West 10th and West 11th streets in Brooklyn's Bensonhurst neighborhood. Just as Batman has the Batmobile, Slice has "The Slicecycle" (below right), its front wheel a compass pointing to truly... More

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