'bar pizza' on Serious Eats

Freehold, New Jersey: Federici's Pizza

It's named Federici's Italian Restaurant, but you come here for the pizza. Folks from the Freehold, New Jersey, area have been doing so since 1946, when brothers Dante Federici and Frank "Spat" Federici Jr. returned from WWII and joined their parents in the family business. With their mother, they put pizza on the restaurant's menu, which had been in operation in some form or other since 1921 (first as a billiard parlor that served food, then as a bar with food, then a full-blown restaurant). The place looks like it never really shook the bar vibe and remains a bit of a throwback to the loungey '70s. Not that that's a bad thing. When you walk into a place like this, you hope they haven't done anything to "update" (read "screw up") the pizza in the intervening years. More

Daily Slice: The Portobello, Pine Nut, and Dried Tomato Pizza from Star Tavern

Of course we did get the requisite Pepperoni Pie ($11.50 and it was as glorious as ever, along with a White Clam Pie ($12.50) (theirs are made with plenty of garlic, and a clam-flavored bechamel-like sauce with just a few chunks of real clam—like no other clam pie I've had, but delicious in its own way), but this time I also opted for one of their specialty pie. Something about the high-low dichotomy of portobello, sun dried tomatoes, and pinenuts on a decidedly non fancy-pants bar-style crust seemed interesting to me. More

NYC: Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria

"The result is probably the highest expression of bar pizza." [Photograph: Nick Solares] Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria 282 Bowery, New York NY 10012 (at Houston; map); 212-226-1966; pulinosny.com/ Pizza Style: "Bowery style" Oven Type: Wood Stone gas-assisted wood The Skinny: It could never have lived up to all the hype that preceded its opening but Nate Appleman has succeeded in developing an exulted form the of bar pizza, bolstered by a superb in-house butchery and partner Keith McNally's front-of-house professionalism Price: $8 to $19 Notes: Reservations recommended When I heard that Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria would be serving "Bowery style"... More

Dear Slice: Try Star Tavern in Orange, New Jersey!

Reaching in to the Slice mailbag, we've got ... At Orange, New Jersey's Star Tavern, try a plain pie first, says Jason Perlow of Off the Broiler. [Photograph: Off the Broiler] I saw your post on Colony Grill in Stamford. Looks pretty good, and I definitely share your enthusiasm for the old-school. But I think sometime soon you really should consider making a trip to Star Tavern in Orange, New Jersey.From the photos alone, I think we have Colony beat. Very similar style, but the upskirt from Colony does not seem to compare!"Star," as we call it, is an institution... More

Stamford CT: Colony Grill, Awesome Bar-Style Pizza

Connecticut has a rich pizza tradition—mostly centered on New Haven. But there's a oft-celebrated gem in Stamford called Colony Grill that serves up some lean, mean bar-style pizza. It is well worth visiting if you are ever in the area—in fact I URGE YOU TO GO. Just be sure to order your pie with the signature hot oil topping. More

Staten Island: Lee's Tavern

Lee's Tavern 60 Hancock Street, Staten Island NY 10305 (at Garretson Ave.; map); 718-667-9749; Pizza Style: Bar pizza Oven Type: Gas The Skinny: Classic version of bar pizza Price: Bar size, $5.25; traditional large, $9; toppings, $1 or $2 extra, respectively There are no signs outside Lee's Tavern to indicate that it is in fact Lee's Tavern. And walking into the place, there's not much of an initial indication that one would be able to get a fine example of bar pizza there. The place is worn to a dull patina—the vinyl floor and irregularly matched tables and chairs,... More

Manhattan: Fanelli's Cafe (Yes, It Serves Pizza)

Fanelli's 94 Prince Street, New York NY 10012 (between Greene St & Mercer St); 212-226-9412; Pizza Style: Bar Oven Type: Gas The Skinny?Classic New York City watering hole serves a not-so-classic pizza Price: 9-inch personal pie, $11 Fanelli's Cafe has been around in its current form since Michael Fanelli bought it in 1922 and, in defiance of the Prohibition laws that went into effect that year, turned his new "cafe" into a speakeasy and gin mill under the guise of selling food. But the building itself has an even more storied past, dating back to at least 1847 as... More

Brooklyn: Toby's Public House (a Checkup)

Clockwise from top left: Toby's is usually packed, especially in summer, when this photo was taken. It still weirds me out when a Slice review gets posted at a pizza joint. The pancetta-mushroom–black garlic pie and a Margherita. [Photograph: Adam Kuban] Toby's Public House 686 Sixth Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11215 (at 21st Street; map); 718-788-1186; tobyspublichouse.com Oven Type: Wood-burning Pie Style: Neapolitan/New York–Neapolitan The Skinny: A relaxing, laid-back pub whose name belies the fact that there are some first-class pizzas coming out of the rustic wood-burning oven here. My God, man, get the black garlic pie! Previously: Toby's (6/30/2008)... More

New Hyde Park NY: Eddie's Makes an Excellent Bar Pizza

I'm not a big fan of cracker-thin pizza crust, so I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked Eddie's pizza, which features a crust not much thicker than one of those pieces of cardboard sandwiched inside my laundered shirts. Though the crust is cracker-thin, it's surprisingly pliant. You can fold a slice of Eddie's pizza. Through five owners and seven decades, Eddie's has been pleasing Nassau County residents determined to save the bulk of the room in their stomachs for beer, not pizza. Eddie's 2048 Hillside Avenue, New Hyde Park NY 11040 (at Denton Ave.; map) 516-354-9780 This entry... More


At Denino's, the pizza box says it all: "In Crust We Trust." They should trust their crust, because it is light and crisp and pliant. Denino's is a classic red-brick tavern pizzeria (with a separate dining room), but it is just as welcoming to kids after a little league game as it is to middle-aged softball players coming in for a pie and a brew after a game. I'm crazy about Denino's sausage pie, which features fine sweet Italian sausage made fresh every day by a local butcher. If you want to go vegetarian, try the white pie, made... More

PJ Brady's

It's not always easy searching for pizza. I had just eaten a fine pie in the outdoor café at Tosca in the Throgs Neck section of the Bronx. It was really hot and muggy, and I was on foot, looking for PJ Brady's, which a couple of locals had insisted was just a few blocks away. I headed east on East Tremont Avenue. I crossed Interstate 295 on a bridge and walked two hundred yards. I reached Philip Avenue and made a right. The first house number I saw was 2800, and the numbers were going up, a good sign... More


I can't help it. After five years of living in New York City, the first two of those in Bay Ridge, I can't help but mentally utter "THE FRESHMAYKAH" after hearing, or thinking of, the name Lento's. Lento's (THE FRESHMAYKAH!) is a Bay Ridge institution, having stood on the corner of Third Avenue and 70th Street since 1933. When I called the Ridge home, Lento's was my go-to spot for whole pies, despite the 20-block round-trip walk. (It's eat in or carry out; no delivery.)... More

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