'coal-oven' on Serious Eats

Grimaldi's: Bigger ... and Better?

I had low expectations in visiting Grimaldi's new location at 1 Front Street, just up the street from the original spot at 19 Old Fulton. The place has been in the news as of late more for tax and landlord drama than for its product. And, I gotta say, it's often served me some underdone, soggy pies. I figured that in moving to a new space, Grimaldi's would give me more of the same—minus the quirky, cramped Brooklyn charm of the original. More

Sac's Place: A Coal-Oven Pizzeria That's Trendy by Accident

Pickled Italian peppers and home-grown basil, oregano, and rosemary. An award-winning apple pie recipe from Ohio made from (somewhat) locally harvest fruit. Heat in the dining room supplied by a wood-burning stove. Nope, not a trendy "Ball jar joint" helmed by Midwestern transplants in Brooklyn. This is all going on at Sac's Place in Astoria, Queens, run by a couple brothers who grew up around the corner from this coal-fired pizzeria and restaurant on Broadway. More

Daily Slice: Patsy's Pizza, East Harlem

I'll tell you what gives: $1.75 A SLICE, that's what! That's kind of all you need to know. A buck seventy-five for a slice of the best pizza in the city. When most slices are running $2.50, $2.75. And it's for a coal-oven slice! But if you need more than that, read on after the jump. More

NYC Quintessential: Patsy's Pizza, East Harlem

There's only one size pizza available on the menu. It's a respectable size — about 16 inches across. Not HUGE but not Neapolitan dainty. Still, even though it's on the bigger side, don't let the size fool you. As the menu says, it's "paper thin." (Yes, the menu says "paper thin.") Got a big appetite? You could easily house three-quarters of a plain pie on your own. Hell, I've eaten an entire Patsy's plain pizza by myself. That was in another lifetime, before Slice even existed. On a long lunch break. I almost fell asleep at my desk when I got back to work. But I digress... More

NYC Quintessential: Lombardi's Coal-Oven Pizza

I'll just say it: Lombardi's is kind of a big tourist thing. After having been hyped in countless national newspaper and magazine stories, guidebooks, and travel shows, this "first pizzeria in America" is pretty much packed any night of the week with people more likely to hail from Manhattan, Kansas, than Manhattan Manhattan. (OK, that's probably an exaggeration, but poetic license, you know?) More

NYC: Luzzo's New Quadrata Square Pie (Plus Two New Pizza-Related Menu Items)

"It is ironic that square pies, stromboli, and fried calzones are considered new here, worthy of press releases and reviews, while they have been staples of the city's pizzerias since time immemorial." Luzzo's 211 First Avenue, New York NY 10003 (12th Street; map); 212-473-7447; luzzos.com Pizza Style: Neapolitan Oven Type: Coal- and wood-fired (and in the case of the Quadrata, electric and gas as well) The Skinny: Three "new" forms of pizza and pizza dough–based dishes that will be familiar to most New Yorkers deliver the goods Price: Quadrata 12-inch, $17; 16-inch, $21 When Luzzo's opened five years ago it... More

Frank Pepe's Head-to-Head (Yonkers vs. New Haven)

Serious Eats–Slice overlord Ed Levine here has been on my case about getting to the new Frank Pepe's in Yonkers for a while now. He wanted to see how it stacked up to the original in New Haven, Connecticut. See, the Frank Pepe family has been on a small tear in the last few years, opening branches of the famed New Haven pizzeria throughout Connecticut—first in Fairfield, then Manchester, then at the Mohegan Sun casino in Uncasville. Then they opened one in Yonkers, New York. This was sort of a big deal in pizza circles, since there's a fair amount... More

Flo Consiglio of Sally's Apizza, a Keeper of the Flame

Flo Consiglio adds up the receipts by hand in a back booth at Sally's Apizza in New Haven, Connecticut. [Photograph: Adam Kuban] I thought I had lost this photo of Sally's Apizza matriarch Flo Consiglio in a hard-drive crash. But I was able to recover some files from my camera's memory card today. Flo is a real character, as I found out during a recent visit to Sally's. But more than that, she's what our man Ed Levine calls a "Keeper of the Flame," a direct link to some of our country's fading food heritage. Here, after the jump, I... More

Yonkers NY: Frank Pepe's in the 'New York Times'

[Photographs: New York Times] The New York Times takes a look at the newish Frank Pepe's branch that opened in Yonkers in early November of last year: The pizza is very good — although you have to be careful what you order. The original tomato pie, a Spartan exercise in dough topped only with crushed tomatoes and a sprinkling of Romano cheese, tasted of good-quality canned tomatoes and little else. That same pie with mozzarella was better, and one with mozzarella and spicy, fennel-spiked pepperoni was downright delicious. A version with plump marinated shrimp was also surprisingly good. And... More

Patsy's Pizza, East Harlem

Top: The late José Jiminez stretching dough and transferring a pizza to the oven. Above: Recent pies from Patsy's in East Harlem. [Photographs: Nick Solares] Patsy's Pizza 2287 First Avenue, New York NY 10035 (117/118; map); 212-534-9783 Pizza Style: New York–Neapolitan Oven Type: Coal The Skinny: Classic New York pizzeria offers a taste of history but has declined since the death of long time pieman José Jiminez Price: $1.75 a slice, $11 a pie, pie toppings $3 each For most of the time that I have lived in New York (which is going on a quarter century) my answer... More

More Coal Oven Madness: Pitch Coal-Fire Pizza, Omaha

[Photograph: Adam Kuban] Our man in Chicago, Daniel Zemans, sent a simple email to me this morning: Subject: New Omaha coal-oven pizza http://www.pitchpizzeria.com/ End of message. While I'm happy to see the coal-oven madness spread throughout the country, I have to wonder how good this is for the genre overall. This latest one to come to my attention, Pitch Coal-Fire Pizzeria, has some crazy shit on its About Us page:... More

New(ish) Coal-Oven Pizzeria: Coalhouse Pizza, Stamford, Connecticut

[Photograph: Coalhouse Pizza] Lost in the holiday shuffle—this rundown on Eating in Translation of the pies on offer at recently opened Coalhouse in Stamford, Connecticut. As you can tell by the name, Coalhouse is another addition to the fast-growing legion of coal-oven pizza places nationwide. According to EiT's Dave Cook, the head pizza dude at Coalhouse came from just-closed Anselmo's in Red Hook, Brooklyn, a move that seems prescient now in retrospect. Coalhouse has been open since early November. It seems to serve pies that pay a nod to Connecticut pizza tradition—a cherrystone clam pie, a hot oil pie... More

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