'deep-fried pizza' on Serious Eats
Last week we gave you a quick look at Don Antonio, the Neapolitan pizzeria that's a partnership between Kesté's Roberto Caporuscio and his mentor, Antonio Starita of Naples' Pizzeria Starita. Here, we take you along as Starita and Caporuscio—along with Caporuscio's daughter, Giorgia—make some of the place's signature menu items.
What is better than pizza? Fried pizza. Or this is the thought that popped into my head when I took my first bite of the Montanara Pizza at Forcella in Williamsburg. It was one of those hit-you-over-the-head good, oh man I need more sort of reactions. Giulio Adriani is the mad creator of the Montanara pizza at Forcella, which he deep fries in vegetable oil and then finishes in the oven to achieve a light and airy crust with the perfect chew, and a crispness only achieved by frying at 375 degrees. He tops the Montanara simply with crushed San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella that he makes in house, Grana Padano cheese, and fresh basil leaves.
OK. Forget for a minute that Forcella is doing some solidly legit traditional pizzas. That's all well and good and totally worth your while. But just know that the place is the only pizzeria I know of in NYC that's doing a deep-fried "montagnara" pizza.
On some of Sumo Grub's dishes, the tempura-fried exterior actually elevates the final product. On others, such as the pizza, it feels more like a stunt. But if that stunt earns you a plate of fried goodies, it's not all bad.