'neapolitan' on Serious Eats

Meet the Wood-Fired Pies at Via Tribunali's NY Outpost

On a Monday night not long ago, I popped into Via Tribunali New York, the sole East Coast outpost of the Seattle-born pizza chain. My companion and I were taken into the dining room (about the size of a rich man's tool shed), and seated under a picture of the Bay of Naples. The vista depicted the Naples of a bygone era—a nostalgic vision of the old country. More

Pizza With Figs, Mozzarella, and Goat's Milk Feta

Even in California, fig season doesn't last forever, and the specimens I was picking up last week had already lost their figgy luster. The best way to use less-than-perfect figs is to cook them. Not only does this drive off some of their moisture, concentrating their flavor, but it also converts some of their more complex sugars to simple sugars that are sweeter than their precursors. Your figs become jammier and all around tastier. This works especially well on a pizza cooked in a hot oven because that bite of cheese and drizzle of olive oil can go straight on top with the figs. More

Pizza With Sausage and Radicchio

The first time I had radicchio on a pizza was about a decade ago in the old converted barn that my good friend and food writer Deborah Krasner calls home, up in Putney, Vermont. I still remember her exact words, because I didn't believe them at the time: "The leaves become just wonderfully sweet when they're roasted and charred," she said. In what was, at that point, my very limited experience, charring things always made them more bitter, not less. Luckily, she was right, I was wrong, and deliciousness ensued. More

Ribalta: Neo-Neapolitan in Union Square

At Ribalta, pizzas are leavened by a natural starter that was brought back from Italy—it's somewhere between 80 and 100 years old, and over the course of a five to seven day rise it brings a noticeable lightness and cultured flavor to the dough. But unlike certain Neapolitan pizzerias that take a monastic approach to the One and Only pie, Ribalta plays around with tradition—just ask the hot dog and fries pizza or the limoncello-marinated chicken wings. More

First Look: Buca Brick Oven Pizza, Morningside Heights

Owned by Sebastiano Cappitta, who recently opened nearby Bettolona, Buca is a tiny space on a quiet block, with six tables — seven if you count the one on the sidewalk — perhaps fitting for a place whose name means hole in Italian. It's small but doesn't feel cramped. Attilio Reale is the pizzaiolo here, manning a fire-breathing oven akin to the one you may have seen at Roberta's. More

Dear Slice: Northern VA/DC Notes

Reaching in to the Slice mailbag, we've got some tips from the D.C. area ... Adam,Just a few items I thought worth noting.1. Aside from Pizzeria Orso, in other Northern Virginia/D.C. pizza news, the couple behind Pupatella, a Neapolitan pizza cart you mentioned a couple years ago, finally opened their full restaurant a couple weeks ago. It is also called Pupatella, and I've been twice now, and while they are still getting the operation in order, the pizza I had most recently was fantastic. Probably better than 2 Amys, which is their only real D.C.-area competition (the others are mediocre... More

Naples: A Trio of Pizzas at Pizzeria Starita

Thought you all might want a little break from my recent ramblings. Here's a field report from Gianluca Rottura (who you might know round these parts as nextgospel). Enjoy! --The Mgmt. [Photographs: Gianluca Rottura] Unfortunately, I must make this article for Slice as short as possible. If there were no limits, I could write a book on my lunch at Pizzeria Starita. For those of you familiar with Kesté Pizza & Vino in New York City, the co-owner and pizzaiolo there, Roberto Caporuscio, perfected his skills at this Neapolitan landmark, which was featured in the Sophia Loren flick L'Oro di... More

Gran Gusto in Cambridge, Mass.: As Neapolitan As It Gets

”Is not a’ fake oven like weet legna in front and deh back is gas. Forno a legna, solo legna.” In every way, Gran Gusto is a product of Naples. That’s not just a comment on the owners of this trattoria (who hail from just outside Naples) or its menu (heavy on the eggplant, seafood, and handmade pasta). The restaurant runs on Neapolitan time. It’s a bit dysfunctional, in a way that’s endearing if you’re patient, frustrating if you’re not. Nearly all ingredients are flown over from the old country: better olive oil; higher prices. Service is competent, but aggressive—as... More

It's Not Pizza Napoletana if You Don't Follow the Rules

Photograph from stu_spivack on Flickr Pizza Margherita will now be recognized as a "regional specialty" in Naples by the European Union under its official name, the Pizza Napoletana. This means anyone claiming to sell a Pizza Napoletana must now adhere to the rules of what constitutes a Pizza Napoletana, as conceived by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana (the True Neapolitan Pizza Association): The diameter must be no more than 35 cm (14 inches) in diameter and no thicker than 1/3 of a centimeter at its center The tomato base must be made from the San Marzano variety of tomatoes... More

Openings: Zero Otto Nove

View Slice's Bronx Pizza Map » Food maven Arthur Schwarz reports on Zero Otto Nove, a newish Neapolitan joint on Arthur Avenue in The Bronx that has somehow managed to fly under the Slice radar: Roberto’s has been a destination restaurant for years. Now Zero Otto Nove has become one. It is already, after only a few months in business, drawing customers from the hinterlands, and for several good reasons. Top among them, I am sure, is the Neapolitan-style pizza that may be the best you’ve ever had in the U.S., and better than many in Naples, as I... More

Naples-Style Pizza Cart in Arlington, Virginia

Photograph courtesy of the Pupatella pizza cart. Melissa McCart (Counter Intelligence) writes about a type of street cart you don't often see, a Neapolitan pizza cart. It's in Arlington, Virginia's Ballston neighborhood: Enzo Algarme and Anastasiya Laufenberg weren't kidding when they said they know pizza. The name of Ballston's new Pupatella Food Cart—pupatella is slang for doll in Naples—is a reference to Algarme's grandmother who inspired his love of cooking. Although they've only been open a week and are making do with a standard oven as opposed to the wood-burning one that's becoming the standard in the area's top... More

Pizza in Manila: Nuccio's

Ladies and gents, my homeslices, every now and then one of you writes in with reviews and info about far-flung pizzerias that are way out of the range of typical Slice coverage. Today, we've got such an item for you. Mark Cohen, who lives part of the year in Manila, submitted a couple dispatches about some pizzerias in the Philippines. Here's the first of his reports. —The Mgmt. Words and photographs by Mark Cohen | I grew up in the New York City area and lived there until I left for college. I was a typical New York pizza freak—except... More

Isabella's Oven: One Great Pizza on a Saturday Night

Update (1/28/2009): Isabella's Oven Closed Until Further Notice photographs courtesy Isabella's Oven I had a truly great pizza in a new pizza place on Saturday, and though I'm not going to tell you that I have seen pizza's future and its name is Isabella's Oven, the way Jon Landau did a zillion years ago when he saw Springsteen live and declared that he had seen rock and roll's future, I will say I had a pie that would easily make a New York City top ten list and maybe a national one as well. Now in New York, when you... More

Wellington, New Zealand: Pizza Pomodoro

Slice has a pen pal over in New Zealand who checks in with this report on Pizza Pomodoro in Wellington. Will F. also tipped us to Al Volo in Auckland, New Zealand, late last year. —The Mgmt. Words and Photo by Will F. | Pizza Pomodoro is a precious nugget of toothsomeness that sits nestled in an alley off of an alley. It also sits next to an alley. It's hidden enough that entering its two-table dining space, if it weren't for the neon sign on the facade, would feel like entering the headquarters of some kind of secret society.... More

Frank Bruni Disses Il Brigante

Remember that rave review Village Voice food critic Robert Sietsema gave Il Brigante the other week? New York Times food critic Frank Bruni says, "huh," slamming the new pizzeria and, by extension, Sietsema. If his point is that Neapolitan pizza is unduly romanticized, and that your standard pizza pie in Naples is not necessarily some gastronomically wondrous epiphany, then O.K., there’s some merit to what he’s saying. But his point seems to be that he loved this pie. My lunch companion and I found nothing lovable about it. I haven't been yet, but now I'm even more curious...... More

The City's New Best Pizza?

The Village Voice's Robert Sietsema thinks he's found it at Il Brigante: At its heart, Il Brigante is a pizzeria, and a damn good one. The rear wall is dominated by a flickering wood-burning hearth inside a limestone proscenium, where a sweating and grunting pizzaiolo is the star of his own small repertory theater. In the style of southern Italy, the 10-inch pies are intended for individual consumption. In fact, the margherita ($10) is the city's most perfect evocation of the true Naples style (even surpassing top spots like Una Pizza Napoletana and La Pizza Fresca). Starting with an irregular... More

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