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Nicoletta: What Michael White is Really After

Slice: New York J. Kenji López-Alt 95 comments

Some regular Slice-reading New Yorkers might be wondering why a national pizza blog with a strong New York bent has been completely mum on the pies at Nicoletta, the new pizza venture from über-Chef Michael White who happens to one of the greatest (not to mention one of our favorite) Italian chefs in the city. And you'd be right to wonder. Other than a brief First Look, we've been silent on the subject. Honestly, it was the initial negative press culiminating in Pete Wells' zero-star review in the New York Times that made us give pause and consider the matter. I mean, what is Michael White doing serving heavy, midwestern pizza with a sauce made with dried herbs and low moisture Wisconsin mozzarella? Here's the real story. More

The Less Than Favorable New York Times Review of Nicoletta

Slice: New York Meredith Smith 13 comments

With Michael White behind Nicoletta, it was one of the most anticipated openings of the year. And we may be biased here at Slice, but all the more anticipated because it was pizza! There's nothing like a scathing New York Times review, however, to extinguish the excitement surrounding a new restaurant. More

Anyone Tried Bittman's Pizza Crust Recipe?

J. Kenji López-Alt 18 comments

Bittman's column in today's New York Times today makes a good case for making pizza at home, but it's made at the expense of the reputation of New York pizza. But does the recipe he provides in the Times even produce results that are better than the most average of take-out slices? More

Live Pizza 'Chat' with Mark Bittman

Meredith Smith 4 comments

It's a big pizza day in the New York Times' Dining Section. As part of "The Pizza Issue," best-selling cookbook author and Times columnist, Mark Bittman, will be conducting an hour long chat over on the NYTimes Facebook page from 3pm to 4pm (EST). More

One to Watch? Eastchester's Polpettina Gets High Praise

Slice: New York Adam Kuban 3 comments

Wow. A resounding recommendation from the New York Times for Polpettina, a small pizzeria just north of NYC in Eastchester, New York. More

Video: New York Times 'Pizza from Scratch'

Meredith Smith 7 comments

Melissa Clark of the New York Times Dining Section offers a respectable basics guide to making pizza at home. That's not to say there aren't some debatable points. (At the risk of sounding snobby, I can't advocate pre-shredded mozzarella. And, garlic a must? Debatable. I don't want to talk about the kitchen shears.) But this video is full of practical at-home modifications for the occasional pizza maker, like using the back of a baking sheet as a peel (my go-to method), not using a rolling pin, using moderation with toppings, and getting the oven properly pre-heated. Certainly better tips than these. Ultimately, it's great to see guides that encourage more home cooks to make pizza. More

Everything You Wanted to Know about Pepperoni

Adam Kuban 13 comments

The New York Times published a fascinating story about pepperoni yesterday that's a must-read. Starting with the premise that pepperoni is rare in fancy-pants pizzerias (it is, trust me), Julia Moskin then goes on to explain what it is, how it's made, and what its origins are (it's not Italian). More

Why This 'NYT' Article Is Good for Pizza

Adam Kuban 12 comments

The New York Times's Oliver Strand gets his fingers in the flour in a story about homemade pizza today. Does this signify a new "pizza moment"? I hope so. But let me qualify that a bit. Parallel to the surge of new pizzerias, there's been a DIY pizza movement quietly building momentum in kitchens and backyards everywhere. So while I say that the publication of this Times article may signify a "new pizza moment," in truth this DIY pizza moment has been happening all along. What's new is that it's finally getting the attention it deserves. More

NYT on the Rise of the NYC Dollar Slice

Adam Kuban 6 comments

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[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

The New York Times's Manny Fernandez does a piece on the dollar slice uprising in NYC:

"I don't think a drunk college student cares about whether there's San Marzano tomatoes on their slice," Jason Feirman, 25, who writes a pizza blog called I Dream of Pizza, said of the $1 pizza trend. "It's a good business model. They're not catering to food blogs. The idea is to turn out these pizzas as fast as they can."

They talked to me, too, but I sound like a Grade A moron. My own fault. Mr. Fernandez simply quoted me talking about the "hole structure" of 99¢ pizza.

Yeah, I know, right? Tool Academy, are you accepting applications for the spring semester?

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Sam Sifton Too Good for 'The City's Best Pizza'

Carey Jones 37 comments

The brussels sprouts and pancetta pizza is, according to Sam Sifton, "Like something from a magic act, a dog speaking BBC English. It is great and unsettling, far better than imagination would dictate." Translation: "Good." [Photograph: Robyn Lee] What do those New York Times stars mean? What distinguishes a "good" restaurant from a great one, a three-star from a four? It's a question often debated, never resolved, and hardly furthered by Sam Sifton's review this week of Motorino. My problem is not that he is so audacious as to name the city's best pizza. (We can't fault him for... More

Yonkers NY: Frank Pepe's in the 'New York Times'

Adam Kuban 2 comments

[Photographs: New York Times] The New York Times takes a look at the newish Frank Pepe's branch that opened in Yonkers in early November of last year: The pizza is very good — although you have to be careful what you order. The original tomato pie, a Spartan exercise in dough topped only with crushed tomatoes and a sprinkling of Romano cheese, tasted of good-quality canned tomatoes and little else. That same pie with mozzarella was better, and one with mozzarella and spicy, fennel-spiked pepperoni was downright delicious. A version with plump marinated shrimp was also surprisingly good. And... More

A Bit of a Profile on Nate Appleman in the 'New York Times'

Adam Kuban Post a comment

New York Times The New York Times runs a somewhat light profile on Nate Appleman today. Appleman is the guy who left San Francisco's A16 pizzeria and turned up in New York City, where he'll helm restaurateur Keith McNally's Pulino's Bar and Pizzeria. There's not much pizza-related meat to this piece, saying that the menu is largely a collection of notes in Appleman's iPhone. It does mention some oven-related stuff, though: The showpiece of the kitchen will be a pair of wood-fired ovens, one for pizza and one for meat. Mr. Appleman turned butchering into a public spectacle at... More

The Editors Regret the Error

Quick Bites Adam Kuban 3 comments

From the New York Times corrections today: An article on July 31 about a price increase to $5 for a slice of pizza at Di Fara Pizza in Midwood, Brooklyn, misstated the age of Francesco Taormina, a manager at Rizzo’s Fine Pizza in Astoria, Queens, who criticized the $5 slice. He is 22, not 42. (Go to Article)... More

Dom DeMarco and the 'Heavy Hand'

Adam Kuban 28 comments

You heard it here first, kids, but the New York Times finally filed a story on the Di Fara $5 slice price, so I guess it's officially news now. Best quote of the story: “It’s like they dug up my grandma and she made the pie." But perhaps the most interesting part of the story is the revelation from Dom's daughter Maggie that something has changed in the way he makes the pies....... More

Quote of the Day: Di Fara After the Hype

Quick Bites Adam Kuban 1 comment

"It starts with hipsters trickling into Midwood, probably the most unhip neighborhood in all the five boroughs. This is a ZIP code where people wear plastic bags on their heads when it rains. So why the skinny jeans and the Airwalk Kicks, the scruffy faux-slacker dudes and the ironic model-gorgeous-geek girls? 'They are lost,' I tell my wife. 'They are lost.'" —Peter Catapano, on Di Fara... More

Frank Bruni on the Great Artisanal Pizza Boom

Adam Kuban 71 comments

New York Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni examines the Great Pizza Boom of 2009 in his story "The Cult of Artisanal Pizza." It's a must-read that packs a lot of info. Let's summarize. The Cliffs Notes Version Bruni makes the claim that the artisanal boom started in 2004 with the opening of Franny's and Una Pizza Napoletana within a few months of each other. "Both brought a new kind of cachet (and vanity) to pizza making and pizza eating in this city. Both changed its demographics" He purposely focuses on newer pizzerias, leaving out old favorites "because they’re products... More

A Novel Way to Deliver Pizza in Paris

Adam Kuban 1 comment

From the New York Times comes word of this charming-bordering-on-twee way of getting pizza delivery in Paris: By the water, there is a small pink dot of a helium balloon, bobbing in the intermittent breeze. The balloon is key. It was given to you by Pink Flamingo, a pizza parlor down the nearby Rue Bichat, whose bicycle deliveryman will use it as a beacon to locate you and present the five pies you've ordered (10.50 to 16 euros each). They're not all for you, of course—you've got friends to help eat the pizza and drink the four bottles of red... More

Co. Company's Jim Lahey Responds to 'New York Times' One-Star Review

Adam Kuban 15 comments

Co. Company's Jim Lahey (above) is not happy about his one-star review in the New York Times. He tells the New York Observer: "We've been open only 90 days," he said. "We have not had a chance to even breathe in 90 days. What the fuck are we being reviewed by the New York Times for, you know, 90 days into being open? It makes no sense."If I knew we were going to be under the microscope, I would have possibly treated the opening of the restaurant a lot differently," he continued. "I didn't open this restaurant to get... More

New York Times' Frank Bruni on Co. Company

Adam Kuban 11 comments

The paper's restaurant critic gives one star to Jim Lahey's Co. Company pizzeria. He mostly likes it but has some criticism that's fairly accurate: But he could indeed improve upon his pizzas somewhat. Although the best of them are outstanding and all pack the pleasures of a serious crust with serious blisters—Mr. Lahey uses an oven that generates heat in excess of 900 degrees—he hasn’t yet nailed the toppings. It’s as if he’s too focused on, and maybe too confident about, what lies beneath. A pizzaiolo-come-lately, he needs to sweat the cheese and the rest of it a little... More

In Videos: The Pizza Man in the Visa 'Mambo Italiano' Commercial

Adam Kuban 8 comments

In a Q&A in the New York Times, the paper's advertising columnist answers reader questions. One question: Who is that wonderful pizza man in the Visa commercial? I love the commercial every time I see it.I have to admit that I'm not sure I would want to eat a pizza that has run over his back and down his arm. But oh, I sure like to watch that sexy guy. The short answer: Juan Hermosillo, who works for Pizza Pizza in Ontario. Now you know where he works; maybe you can watch him in person. Related Pizza-Tossing Antics ...... More

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