Not Fade Away
TWILIGHT The House of Pizza and Calzone, where calzones get equal billing on the awning, will change hands at the end of the month.
PHOTOGRAPHS BY Adam K.
"Everything has to end eventually," Enofrio Gaudioso was telling us the other day, in between folding calzones and sharing yarns about pizza past. "It's time."
For Mr. Gaudioso, that time arrives in less than two weeks, when he turns off the oven at his Red Hook pizzeria, the House of Pizza and Calzone, for the final time, passing the pizza peel to a new owner. It will be the first time in forty-six years when pizza won't be on his mind.
Mr. Gaudioso is one of those hangers-on we hear about on occasion but don't encounter often enough: a little gruff on the outside but warm and giving on the inside. Dedicated to his craft but even more to his customers. "I'll miss the people," he says. "But that's it."
NAMESAKES A plain pie that E-Rock and Adam K. ordered two Saturdays ago (left) and a deep-fried calzone (yes, deep-fried) fresh out of the hot oil (right). You can see Mr. Gaudioso removing the pockets from the fryer above. Below right is a barely discernable depiction of cheese oozing from a hot calzone; Seltzerboy and the shop's pizzaioli can be seen in reflection.
We asked a few more questions, reminisced over some old pictures, and perused some yellowed newspaper clippings on the wallamong the few things still remaining on the nearly bare walls. Mr. Gaudioso then treated us to a few zepoles topped with a smattering of confectioners' sugar.
HOUSE OF PIZZA AND CALZONE
Hours: Sporadic. Closed Sundays. Open from noon to 7:30-ish
Payment: Cash only
Getting there: F train to Carroll Street. Exit station; walk north to Union (2 blocks at most). Head west on Union about 4.5 blocks. House is just across the BQE on the south side of the street.
Recommended: The slices are good, but the deep-fried calzone's the thing
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