Robert Sietsema of the Village Voice hits Cronkite, the new pizzeria from Fornino owner Michael Ayoub. Sietsema notes the fact that the crowd is sparse despite the phenomenal pies:
There's nothing wrong with the pizzas, though, which come in two sizes: a 10-inch individual pie, and a 16-inch regular pie that easily feeds two. Made in a gas-fired brick oven, the crust is similar to what one finds in Central Italy: thinner than the standard American pie, with crunchy areas competing with squishier ones. Our favorite that first evening was Tartufo, the most expensive pie on the menu ($36/$51). The pizza melts three cheeses—fresh mozzarella, ricotta, and fontina—as a creamy platform for a blizzard of shaved black truffles, which look like wood ash on white snow. Very Japanese, visually speaking. The pungent odor assails the nostrils, and the truffles leave a miraculous aftertaste that persists for hours. Do I love this pizza? You bet! It would be worth it to go hungry for the day to split this gem with a friend. There is a problem devouring it first thing in the meal: Nothing else on the menu can top it.
If you don't want to get that spendy, he says, six other pizzas he and his tasting party tried were "spectacular," with the exception of the one topped with pesto, which, he says, is "like a toxic chemical spill on your pie."
That's Dough Way It Is [Village Voice]
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