I know some of you are getting sick of reading about Co., so had this been another stellar review, I would have skipped the reblog on it. But for all you Co. haters, you have a champion in Freeman:
Like all the crusts at Company, it's always perfect.
But it's the only thing that's always perfect at Company.
Unfortunately, pizza isn't just crust. And it isn't just sauce. And it isn't just toppings. It's the quality of these things and their ratio that make a great pizza. From day one, Company has been mobbed. Crowds hover near the door. They jam the tiny bar, waiting for a seat at one of the tables. They huddle around the hostess like Sullivan St. zombies. Which would make sense if the pizza were consistently terrific, but it's not.
People care about toppings, too. Where's the sauce? And where's the flavor, especially in the Margherita pizza—the true measure of any good pizza place? The Popeye pizza sounds like a good idea, but it's really just baby spinach leaves on excellent toast.
Of course, Freeman then says that two of Lahey's pizzas are spot on—the Flambé (which I found too heavy, actually) and the Boscaiola (the "woodsman" pizza, with sausage, mushroom, onion, and peperoncini). The rest of the menu, she says, is skippable.
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