When I went to Pizzeria Mozza last March and sampled seven pizzas that ranged from delicious to mind-blowing, it joined a short list of pizzerias that I will visit every single time I'm anywhere nearby. About a month ago I made it back to L.A.—Mozza was every bit as good as I remembered. Actually, thanks to the squash blossoms and burrata pizza, it was even better.
The crust is a gift handed down to Los Angeles by bread goddess Nancy Silverton. Crisp to the point of crunchy in spots, yet still light and chewy throughout, it is a textural revelation. The flavor, enhanced by the wood-burning oven and the purported use of both malt and rye flour, is like something that may not exist anywhere else in the pizza universe.
As great as the crust is, it's quite possible the toppings are even better. Who knows where the chef got squash blossoms in November, but they were delicious. The delicate blossoms retained a slight hint of zucchini flavor, blending seamlessly with the mounds of creamy burrata dressed in olive oil and dotted with salt and pepper. Piled on top of tangy sauce and the excellent crust, the contrast of textures and flavors were masterful, making this one of the best pizzas I ate all year.
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