When I walked into the loosely French bakery Jean Danet Pastry last weekend, pizza was the furthest thing from my mind. But in back, behind the long display case of cookies and cheesecakes and Valentine's cupcakes, was a prominently displayed brick oven—and a guy standing at the ready with a pizza peel. Pizza, in a pastry shop? Why not? The poor dough-slinger didn't have much to do; I decided to put him out of his boredom.
And I was quite happy with the Alessia ($11) he brought out. The crust didn't have the hallmarks of most excellent pizza—real hole structure, good char, a lightning-fast cook time—but it did have the hallmarks of good pizza: lots of flavor, enough salt, a little outside crispness and real interior chewiness. It's an undeniably tasty base for the house-made mozzarella, prosciutto di Parma, and arugula on top, toppings that are all well-proportioned, keeping this out of "salad on a pizza" territory. Verdict? Nothing you'd trek across Brooklyn for, but tasty and reasonably priced when you're there.