Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Woody's Grill and Tap is planted right off the Fens in student-rich soil. Despite being flanked by Northeastern and Berklee, Woody's seems to draw a solid neighborhood crowd, and while it gets plenty of student traffic, the bar is by no means overrun with co-eds.
The brick oven at Woody's has been run by the current owners for 12 of the 14 years that is has been in operation. And Filipe, the sous chef, has been stoking the fires from the beginning. The pies he makes have a thin crust with intermittent puff. While there is good char in spots and a hint of smokiness to the chewy crust, structurally it tends to buckle toward the center of the slices. Ordering pies well-done would most likely fix that.
The slow-cooked sauce is characterized by a peppery warmth and plentiful basil, but it maintains an underlying brightness and is well salted. The cheese is a balanced blend of mozzarella and Romano, but it verges on over-abundant. Woody's makes its own sausage, and that comes through more in the texture (which is less compact and more tender than your standard-issue pizza sausage) than in the taste. Topping a small pizza with the homemade sausage and red onions ($9.85) helped cut the heaviness of the cheese, but, mostly, Woody's just needs to take it easy on the mozz.
Woody's Grill and Tap
58 Hemenway Street, Boston MA (map) 617-375-9663
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