While Levain Bakery on the Upper West Side is known for their giant dough balls of chocolate chip cookies, they venture over to the savory side with three pizzas, including this caramelized onion-Gruyere ($7.70; one quarter of that pictured here). Ask for it warmed up behind the counter.
This is what you'd call a topping-driven pizza—the crust is servicable, whole wheat (sigh) and crisp, but you're really ordering it for the sultry-sweet onions and tons of black pepper and nutty, oozy Gruyere. While pizza purists might turn up their noses, this is a fine lunchtime sandwich alternative, or a savory snack for two.
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