Daily Slice: Sicilian at Big Mario's, Seattle

Slice: Seattle

Pizza reviews in the Seattle area.

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.


Big Mario's first entered my radar thanks to a video posted last September by Pizza Obsessive Anthony Falco (aka "tonycalzone" here on Slice).

In said video I learned that Big Mario's double-bakes their pies, a process that involves stretching the dough, parbaking it in the oven for about twenty seconds, topping it, then baking it again (and since the slices get reheated in the oven if you're not getting a fresh pizza, then technically they're triple-baking it).

And who can resist a hefty Sicilian slice topped with salami, pepperoni, and sausage? It's nothing fancy, just salty, oily meats resting on a thin layer of herbaceous tomato sauce and mozzarella. The meats do everything they're supposed to do: the pepperoni brings the mild spiciness, the salami brings the sodium and grease, and the hunks of sausage bring the characteristic porkiness (sans fennel, unfortunately). Standard stuff, but a perfect cap to a night of drinking (which is what this neighborhood is really for.)


20110428-149598-big-marios-porn-stache.jpgThe thick crust was really more of a vehicle for the toppings than something crave-worthy, which isn't to say it was bad. It just needed a pinch more salt, or a longer ferment, or some grated Parmesan applied to the edge pre-oven to add a little flavor. Better yet, why not all three? Still, it's a decent Sicilian crust with a nice open crumb that's chewy but not doughy.

I still haven't found the be-all end-all Sicilian slice in Seattle, but Big Mario's will certainly do in the meantime. And as far as I know, it's the only place in town sporting a framed photograph of the owner with a legitimate porn 'stache. Just don't ask about the one of Eric Estrada in the bathroom; that's a journey you'll have to take on your own.

Big Mario's New York Style Pizza

1009 E Pike Street, Kirkland, WA 980122 (map) 206-922-3875; bigmariosnewyorkstylepizza.com/