Daily Slice: Steamboat Pizza, Nantucket, Massachusetts

Daily Slice

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[Photo: Carey Jones]

Nantucket Island, off the coast of Massachusetts, is as well endowed with ice cream shops and pricey fine-dining establishments as you'd expect from a resort town; look for an affordable bite downtown at night, though, and you're flat out of luck. Steamboat Pizza is an exception to that rule. On "The Strip," a stretch of Broad Street packed with bar-hoppers by night and those just off the ferry docks by day, it's a New York-style slice joint that always has a cheese, a pepperoni, and at least a few other pies ready to go.

There are minor quibbles a person could have with this pie: the crust is a little bready, the sauce, a little sweet and tinny. But that crust has a good outside crisp, in real contrast to the bubbly, doughy crust innards; it's well-salted and has good flavor, too. (Better than the crusts at plenty of corner slice joints in New York.) The cheese is ample and oozing and in generous, but smart proportion. It's not sophisticated pizza, but it's plenty satisfying, particularly if you go when turnover's high and the pies are fresh (late nights are good for this, as is the post-beach 3:00 to 5:00pm stretch).

Steamboat's got island-inflated prices ($3.75 for a cheese slice, though two together are $7; food prices on Nantucket tend to be about 30% higher than they seem like they should be), but even when it's too expensive, pizza's still a cheap meal. Which is not the case for many of the burger, sandwich, and other quick-service spots on this strip. Best part: it's open until 2:00am, which is, frankly, when you need this pizza most.

Steamboat Pizza

10 Broad Street, Nantucket MA 02554 (map) 508-228-1131